Journal
Dress shirts
160 guides written by the people who cut and sew tuxedos: the rules of black tie, and when to bend them.
Dress shirts
Tuxedo Shirt Fit: Collar, Chest, Sleeves and Body
A well-fitted tuxedo shirt comes down to four points: a collar with one finger of room, a flat chest, cuffs that show, and a body long enough to stay tucked.
Dress shirts
Tuxedo shirts for hot humid climates
Tuxedo in a hot, humid city like Saigon: choose a voile or light cotton shirt, a pleated bib lighter than piqué, a wicking undershirt and a spare shirt.
Dress shirts
Tuxedo shirt fabrics: poplin, voile, twill, piqué
Compare four weaves for a tuxedo shirt: poplin, voile, twill and piqué. Sheen versus matte, weight and feel on the body, then how to choose for each occasion.
Dress shirts
Fly-front tuxedo shirts: clean and modern
A fly-front shirt hides its buttons behind a strip of cloth for an unbroken chest. How it compares with studs and when it suits a minimalist tuxedo.
Dress shirts
How to fit shirt studs on a tuxedo shirt
How to fit studs on a tuxedo shirt: three or four studs, fitted before you put the shirt on, onyx or mother-of-pearl, and how to ease tight buttonholes safely.
Dress shirts
French cuffs on a tuxedo shirt: why they belong
A folded French cuff closed with cufflinks is a near-essential tuxedo shirt detail. Cuff length and width, wearing a watch, and why a single cuff will not do.
Dress shirts
Which turndown collar suits a tuxedo
Semi-spread balances a medium bow tie, cutaway frames a large one, and a higher band keeps either upright. Why a button-down collar does not suit a tuxedo.
Dress shirts
Wing collar or turndown collar with a tuxedo
Wing or turndown collar for a tuxedo? The wing collar belongs to white tie, the turndown is modern black-tie standard. Choose by face, neck and bow tie.
Dress shirts
Piqué (marcella) bib shirts: the formal choice
A piqué bib shirt has a honeycomb-woven chest tied to white tie and classic black tie. Wing or turndown collar, and how to launder it to keep its texture.
Dress shirts
Pleated-bib tuxedo shirts: pleat size, count and fit
How to choose a pleated-bib tuxedo shirt: fine, medium or wide pleats, how many on each side, and how the bib should meet a cummerbund or waistcoat.
Dress shirts
Tuxedo shirts vs business shirts: what is different
A tuxedo shirt differs from an office shirt in bib, cuffs, front closure and collar. Know these four points so a wrong shirt does not spoil your tuxedo.
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