Wing collar or turndown collar with a tuxedo

For most tuxedo occasions today, the turndown collar is the right and comfortable choice. The wing collar is for very ceremonial evenings, white tie above all, or for a man who wants a deliberately classic look. The final decision rests on the dress code on the invitation, your face and neck, and the bow tie you plan to tie.

The wing collar: ceremonial, tied to white tie

A wing collar is a tall, upright collar whose tips fold outward like small wings, leaving the bow tie fully visible in front. By traditional convention it is the collar of white tie: worn with a tailcoat, white waistcoat, white bow tie and a piqué-bib shirt. The comparison is covered in tuxedo and white-tie tailcoat.

In black tie the wing collar is still accepted and usually read as a classic flourish. It looks distinctly formal, because every eye is drawn to the bow tie. The trade-off is that a wing collar is fussy to wear: the points touch your chin when you turn your head, and on a short neck a tall upright collar can make the neck seem to disappear.

The turndown collar: modern black-tie standard

A turndown collar has an upright band and points that fold down, resembling an ordinary shirt collar but designed for a bow tie. Today it is the most common choice for black tie: easy to wear, clear of the chin, comfortable through a long evening.

What decides whether a turndown collar looks right is the band. It has to be high enough for the bow tie to rest on it without touching the skin of the neck, and the points must open just enough to hold the wings of the tie rather than press on them. The article on turndown collars for a tuxedo goes through semi-spread and cutaway styles, and is worth reading once you have decided on a turndown.

Choosing by face and neck

The collar frames the face. A few rules we use in the workroom:

• Long face, long neck: a tall wing collar lengthens the neck further and upsets proportion. A medium-band turndown with slightly wider points balances better.
• Round face, short neck: a higher band with narrower points pulls the eye vertically and tidies the face. A very tall wing collar can feel choking.
• Square face, strong jaw: a collar with gently open points softens the jawline. A small wing collar also suits if you like the classic look.
• Thick neck, broad shoulders: pick a turndown with a medium band and avoid a tight wing collar, which squeezes the neck when the bow tie is tied.

These are starting rules, not laws. A tailor will have you try each style in the mirror, because the eye is the real test.

Matching the bow tie to each collar

Collar and bow tie must speak the same language.

1. Wing collar: a hand-tied bow tie of medium or small width, black for black tie, white for white tie. The wing collar exposes the tie, so it must be neatly tied with balanced wings.
2. Turndown collar: the tie may be slightly larger, but its width should not exceed the span of the collar points. For a larger bow tie, a wide-spread turndown is a natural partner.
3. Pre-tied (clip-on) bow tie: works with either, but a hand-tied bow always looks more natural, especially with a wing collar where it is on show.

If you already own a bow tie, bring it to the shirt fitting, since proportions only read correctly when tried together. Tying a bow with a wing collar has its own article: placing the bow tie with a wing collar.

Which collar for which occasion

Occasion	Suggested collar
White tie, international ceremonial events	Wing collar
Formal black tie, gala dinner, awards	High-band turndown or wing
Wedding, groom	Turndown, occasionally wing for a classic note
Informal evening events	Turndown

Checking the collar

Test it in three positions: standing straight, turning your head, and looking down. The collar should fit snugly yet allow one finger underneath. Once tied, the bow should not hide the whole collar nor expose the back of the band. If the collar is too loose, the bow tends to slip after a few hours.

Advice from the Mon Amie workroom

The collar is the easiest detail to get right when made to measure and the easiest to get wrong off the rack. Mon Amie measures the neck and band height and lets you try each style with a real bow tie. See the made-to-measure tuxedo page, or book a showroom fitting to try wing and turndown collars on yourself.