Dress code
Reading the invitation, dressing the part
Evening dress codes, from the strictest to the most relaxed, and every part of a tuxedo that makes it correct.
The ladder
Five evening dress codes
- 01
White Tie
The most formal: tailcoat, white piqué waistcoat, white bow tie, wing-collar shirt. Rare — state banquets and royal balls.
- 02
Black Tie
Black or midnight-blue tuxedo, white dress shirt, black bow tie, cummerbund or waistcoat, black polished shoes. The standard for evening receptions, galas and evening weddings.
- 03
Black Tie Optional
A tuxedo is encouraged; a dark suit (black, navy, charcoal) with a plain tie is acceptable.
- 04
Creative Black Tie
Tuxedo structure with room for personality: velvet, jacquard, wine colours, patterned bow ties. Suits the stage, art events and modern weddings.
- 05
Cocktail
A sharp dark suit, with or without a tie. A tuxedo may be overdressed here.
Anatomy
Nine parts of a correct tuxedo
01
Silk-faced lapels
Shawl, peak or notch lapels faced in glossy satin or matte ribbed grosgrain — the defining mark of a tuxedo.
02
Covered buttons
Buttons covered in the lapel facing, usually a single button on single-breasted jackets. Double-breasted is the classic formal variation.
03
Jetted pockets
Hip pockets are jetted without flaps to keep the front clean; the breast pocket holds a white pocket square.
04
Braided trousers
Trousers in the jacket cloth with a satin or grosgrain braid down each leg, no turn-ups, a slightly higher rise and side adjusters or braces instead of a belt.
05
Cummerbund or waistcoat
Covers the waistband between jacket and shirt: a cummerbund with pleats facing up, or a low-cut evening waistcoat. One or the other, never both.
06
Dress shirt
White shirt with a pleated or piqué bib, turndown or wing collar, French cuffs and shirt studs in place of buttons.
07
Self-tie bow tie
A black bow tie in satin or grosgrain matching the lapel facing. A self-tied bow always looks more natural than a pre-tied one.
08
Shoes & socks
Black patent or highly polished oxfords, or opera pumps for the most formal evenings. Fine black socks long enough to show no skin when seated.
09
Accessories
A white linen or silk pocket square, matching cufflinks and studs, a slim dress watch on leather. Less but better — a tuxedo needs little.
Common mistakes
What to avoid
- A long necktie instead of a bow tie at a true black-tie event.
- A belt with a cummerbund — tuxedo trousers use side adjusters or braces.
- A cummerbund and a waistcoat together.
- Flap pockets, contrasting stitching or a notch lapel in a different cloth from the facing.
- Brown shoes, or socks that show skin when you sit.
- A busy pocket square — white linen or silk is correct.
By appointment
Your tuxedo begins with a conversation
Book a measuring session at any of our five showrooms, or message us on Zalo with a model code.