Tuxedo shirts for hot humid climates

In a hot, humid climate such as Saigon, a tuxedo shirt should be voile or light cotton, with a pleated bib in place of piqué, a moisture-wicking undershirt beneath, and a spare shirt in the bag. None of these changes the dress code; they change how comfortable you are through the hours spent standing in a crowded room.

A tuxedo is a layered outfit: shirt, undershirt, cummerbund or waistcoat, jacket. Heat and humidity trap perspiration between the layers, so the layer next to the skin needs to be as light and airy as possible. The shirt is the layer you can control without altering the cut of the suit.

Voile and light cotton

Two cloths deserve consideration, both cotton but woven differently.

• Voile: fine, tightly twisted yarns set openly, so the cloth is very light and lets air through. It drapes softly and dries quickly. The drawbacks are that it is slightly sheer and creases easily, so it needs careful pressing and suitable layering underneath.
• Fine, light poplin: a plain weave with a smooth face, cooler than twill and medium in weight. Choose a long-staple yarn, so the cloth is light without being transparent and still holds its shape under satin lapels.

Avoid the wrong choices: thick polyester blends tend to hold heat and trap moisture, and heavy twill runs warmer. The four weaves are compared in tuxedo shirt fabrics, and the fibre itself is discussed in long-staple cotton for tuxedo shirts.

A pleated bib, lighter than piqué

The bib is the thickest part of the shirt, so the type you choose affects how warm you feel.

A piqué bib is double-woven, thick and warm, handsome but a poor fit for heat. A pleated bib uses the same cloth as the body of the shirt, simply folded, so it is far lighter and more breathable. If heat is your main worry, favour fine or medium pleats, or choose a plain bib. Choosing pleats is covered in pleated-bib tuxedo shirts, while piqué is in piqué bib shirts for occasions that call for more ceremony.

If you must wear a piqué bib for white tie or a very formal gala, you can offset it with a thin undershirt and an air-conditioned venue. For most weddings in a warm city, a pleated bib is the sensible choice.

A moisture-wicking undershirt

The undershirt is the layer many men skip and the one that matters most. A few rules:

1. Choose a cloth that wicks and dries quickly. Fine cotton, modal or a technical fabric absorbs perspiration before it soaks into the shirt.
2. A low neckline or deep V. The undershirt must never show above the shirt collar, especially when the collar leans forward as you look down.
3. Pick a shade close to your skin. Under a thin white shirt, a white undershirt actually stands out more than a pale skin-tone or beige one, because white creates a visible edge through the cloth.
4. A close fit, not a loose one. A baggy undershirt bunches under the shirt and shows through light cloth.
5. Do not overdo layers. One good undershirt beats two stifling ones.

More detail is in undershirts beneath a tuxedo shirt. The same thinking applies to outdoor receptions, as discussed in wearing a tuxedo in hot weather.

Bring a spare shirt

A simple habit and an effective one, especially for the groom and the master of ceremonies, who stand, walk and pose for photographs over many hours. The spare shirt should:

• Match the one you are wearing. Same collar, bib and cuffs, so the change keeps the outfit coherent.
• Be pressed and hung in a garment bag. Folded in a suitcase it creases, so use a hanger.
• Come with spare studs and cufflinks, so you are not hunting for them when needed.
• Be kept somewhere accessible. The venue's changing room, the car, or a relative who is with you.

A sensible moment to change is midway, after the photographs or before the main dinner, when perspiration has taken the shape out of the first shirt.

A few other small tips

• Wear a hand-tied bow tie rather than a clip-on, which leaves the neck freer.
• Avoid a collar that is too tight; in heat, a collar with room for one finger is enough.
• At an outdoor reception, sit in the shade and take off the jacket when the etiquette allows.
• Wash voile and fine cotton by hand or in a laundry bag, press with steam, and avoid heavy starch.

Advice from the Mon Amie workroom

When you order a tuxedo shirt at Mon Amie, tell the specialist the occasion, the venue and the likely weather so they can suggest the right cloth and bib. See our made-to-measure tuxedo page or book a showroom fitting to feel the lighter cloths on your body.