Collar height for short and long necks

A man with a short neck should choose a low collar band and a spread turndown collar, so the neck reads longer. A man with a long neck suits a taller band, or a wing collar, which fills the space between chin and shoulder. The bow tie follows the neck, and both start from an accurately measured collar size.

Why neck length decides the collar

A tuxedo shirt collar sits right under the chin and wraps the bow tie, so it frames the whole face. A tall band closes the gap between chin and shoulder; a low band opens more of the neck. Choose against your own neck and a short neck is pressed down further while a long neck stands exposed.

This is a visual principle, not a law. Many men with an average neck look fine in any collar; the guidance below is for those whose neck length is clearly one way or the other.

Short neck: low band, turndown collar

The aim is to make the neck look longer and lighter.

• A low band. The band, the strip of cloth standing round the neck, should be low to medium so more neck shows.
• A turndown collar with a medium or wide spread. The collar points angle outward, forming an open V that lengthens the neck. Avoid very short points, which feel strangling.
• Avoid a tall wing collar. The upright band pushes the chin up and shortens the neck further.
• Fasten to a comfortable fit. A tight collar pushes the skin into a roll; a loose one gapes. You should be able to slip one finger inside.

Turndown collars suit many occasions; see our piece on turndown collars for a tuxedo.

Long neck: higher band, wing collar

The aim is to balance the proportion and reduce the empty space.

• A taller band. A moderately high band covers part of the exposed neck and brings the upper body into proportion.
• A wing collar. Its two small points stand up and hug the bow tie, a natural choice for a long neck. It is a very classical collar, worn with a stiff-bosomed shirt.
• Points close together. Avoid a very wide spread turndown, which adds more empty space in the middle.
• Do not let it hang loose. A long neck in a loose collar looks like wearing an oversized ring.

Let the bow tie follow the neck

The bow tie sits in the centre of the neck zone, so its size must match. A common rule: a short neck suits a neat bow with a medium wing, not too broad, so it does not swallow the little neck there is. A long neck can carry a larger bow, which helps fill the exposed neck.

The bow also has to suit the face and shoulders. Our guide to bow tie size by face shape shows how to consider both: round, square and long faces each change the right bow.

Measuring the neck properly

A shirt collar size is not the size of the neck itself but of the place where the collar sits. To measure:

1. Use a soft tape around the base of the neck, where the collar will lie, a little below the Adam's apple.
2. Keep it level and not tight; allow one finger of room.
3. Note the figure, then check against a real collar in the fitting room. The tailor also measures neck height to choose the band height.
4. Measure at any time of day, since the neck changes little; but if you have gained or lost weight, measure again.

The neck figure is only part of the story; band height decides the feel. Two men with the same neck size can need different band heights. For common errors in measuring yourself, see our guide to taking your tuxedo shirt size.

Small tests in the fitting room

• Fasten the collar, put on the bow tie, face the mirror and then turn side-on.
• Turn your head left and right; if the collar rubs the chin or makes a skin fold, the band is too high or too tight.
• Lower your chin slightly and lift it; if the collar pulls away from the neck when you look up, the band is too low or the collar too large.

Try and adjust at the showroom

The surest approach is to try several collars and look in the mirror. Book a fitting at a Mon Amie showroom: the consultant will measure neck size and neck height, let you try turndown and wing collars with a bow tie, and make the collar that suits your neck when you decide.