The groom's shirt: bib, collar and studs

For a groom, the shirt sits closest to the camera: it fills the chest in every photograph beside the bride. A pleated or piqué bib, a collar that suits the bow tie, a white that harmonises with the wedding dress and a set of studs used properly are enough. Prepare a spare as well.

The bib: pleated or piqué

These two are the standard for an evening shirt.

A pleated bib carries narrow vertical pleats on either side of the placket. It is soft and light, comfortable indoors or outdoors, and the vertical lines lengthen the torso. Small pleats suit a slim frame; broader pleats suit a taller, larger man. More in our piece on the pleated shirt bib.

A piqué (marcella) bib uses a woven textured cloth and is often starched more firmly, giving a flat, structured chest. It is slightly more formal and holds its shape well, though over a long evening you should watch that it does not ride up when seated (see shirt bib bulging when seated).

A plain bib or a concealed placket is cleaner still and suits a gentler ceremony. On a black one-button shawl-lapel suit like TUX-102, a pleated shirt with black buttons leans toward traditional black tie; on TUX-099, a black one-button suit with peak lapels and a pleated shirt, the base is just as solid.

The collar, against bow tie and face

Evening shirts have two common collars. A modest turndown collar is the broadest choice, works with a medium bow tie and is comfortable all day. A wing collar has two small points standing up; it is more formal, suits a smaller or medium bow tie, and is chosen by grooms who want a clearly classical line. Either way the collar should sit up against the jacket collar rather than sink beneath it. Details are in the guide to collar styles that suit a tuxedo.

Matching the bride's dress

The groom's shirt is white, but white has many shades: a crisp, slightly cool white and a soft, warmer ivory. Next to an ivory dress, a bright white shirt can make the dress look yellowed; next to a cool white dress, an ivory shirt can look tired. The easy rule is to hold the shirt swatch against the dress fabric in daylight, especially if you are photographed outdoors, and choose the closest tone. See matching the tuxedo to the bride's dress and our wedding tuxedo page.

Studs as a keepsake

Studs are small fasteners that pass through the placket in place of fabric buttons, usually worn with cufflinks at the cuffs. They are tiny but sit right under the bow tie, so they catch the light first. Many grooms choose a silver or pearl set as a keepsake of the wedding day and sometimes pass it to a son. That is a custom many families keep, not a rule. The shirt must have stud holes to take them, so tell the tailor at the start.

A spare shirt

A wedding day is long: photographs, greeting guests, dancing. Sweat, a wine spill or a stray lipstick mark can ruin the main shirt. The sensible answer is a spare of the same style, pressed and kept in a garment bag near the reception. If you must choose, make two to the same pattern rather than let the spare fit differently. That way, if you need to change, you do not have to change the way you wear it.

Quick checklist

1. A pleated or piqué bib, tried beside the jacket and bow tie.
2. A collar suited to the bow tie, comfortable fastened.
3. A white checked against the bride's dress in real light.
4. Stud holes if you want studs; double cuffs for cufflinks.
5. One spare shirt.

Book the shirt with the jacket fitting

Try the shirt at the same time as the jacket so you see collar, bib and sleeve together. Book a fitting at a Mon Amie showroom and bring a swatch or a photo of the bride's dress if you have one. Making time depends on the style and fitting schedule, so order well before the wedding. For the full outfit, read about the groom's wedding tuxedo.