Vitale Barberis Canonico: a historic Italian mill

Vitale Barberis Canonico is an Italian wool mill in the Biella district of northern Italy, and by its own account it has been weaving cloth since 1663. The business is family run and supplies tailors around the world. At Mon Amie, Canonico cloth sits in the Heritage line, for the man who wants a tuxedo that lasts for years.

Biella and why the district is known for wool

Biella is one of Italy's traditional wool-weaving regions, lying at the foot of the Alps. The area has long had soft mountain water, which suits the washing and finishing of wool. Many mills there make their living from suit and coat cloth for tailors worldwide.

Canonico is among the oldest of these names. The date 1663 falls in the 17th century, long before the tuxedo itself appeared in the late 19th. A mill that has lasted that long usually keeps strict quality control, but you do not have to take the name on trust. Pick the cloth up and judge it.

What Canonico cloth is like

Two things stand out when you wear it and handle it.

• Durability. The mill's worsted wool has an even yarn and a firm weave, and it stands up to regular wear and measured dry cleaning. On a tuxedo, where elbows, trouser hems and the seat see friction, that matters.
• Colour. Black and midnight blue on good wool tend to look deep, with less drift toward brown or grey. Look at the cloth under showroom lighting to see the difference between swatches.

In the hand it drapes naturally, neither stiff nor dry. Your adviser will show you the label with weight and Super grade for any specific cloth you consider.

One thing worth saying plainly: Canonico cloth is not something to show off by name. The person beside you at the party cannot read the label. They only see a jacket that sits cleanly on the shoulder, a flat lapel and a deep black. The value of good cloth lies in those things, and in the suit still looking right after many wears.

Which qualities suit a tuxedo

A tuxedo wants a matt or very softly lustred body cloth to contrast with satin facings. Plain wool in black, midnight blue and deep navy is the usual direction. The weight should be moderate: firm enough to hold its shape, not so heavy that it is oppressive in Ho Chi Minh City's climate.

To picture the cut, look at a three-piece black tuxedo such as TUX-027 and the black collection. Note that this is only to show the style, and the cloth for your own suit is chosen separately at the showroom.

When to choose Canonico

• You plan to wear the tuxedo for many years, across many party seasons, and want cloth that keeps its shape.
• You value depth of black, especially if the suit will often be photographed.
• You like a soft Italian drape, not the firmer hand of some traditional eveningwear cloths.

If you will wear it once, or your wedding budget is committed elsewhere, Essential or Signature still gives a proper tuxedo. You might also consider renting for a single event. The differences between price lines are laid out in the cloth tiers at Mon Amie.

Looking after good wool

Good wool does not need frequent dry cleaning. Hang the suit on a broad-shouldered hanger, let it rest between wears, brush off dust with a soft brush, and send it out only when there is a stain or odour. Over-cleaning wears cloth faster than wearing does. For a small mark, blot first with a clean damp cloth and do not rub.

One more point specific to tuxedos: satin facings and wool bodies age at different rates. Satin snags and marks easily, while wool is hardier. So store the jacket in a breathable cloth bag rather than a sealed plastic one, so that moisture is not trapped inside.

See the cloth at the showroom

Rather than read about it, touch the cloth. Your adviser will lay a Canonico length beside others so you can compare drape and depth of colour. Book a fitting at any of our five showrooms, or read about the process from measurement to finish on the bespoke tuxedo page.