Cloth tiers: Vercelli, Kevinlli, Canonico, Holland & Sherry

Mon Amie sorts its cloth into three price lines. Essential uses Kevinlli, Signature uses a higher Kevinlli grade and Italian Vercelli, and Heritage is cloth from two mills, Vitale Barberis Canonico of Italy and Holland & Sherry of England. Treat this as a guide: you will hold the actual cloth in your hands, and your adviser confirms the exact match at the consultation.

A quick map: which cloth sits in which line

Line	Two-piece price	Typical cloth
Essential	VND 4,800,000 – 10,000,000	Kevinlli V3, labelled 50% wool Super 120s
Signature	VND 10,000,000 – 20,000,000	Kevinlli V7 (80% wool Super 140s), Vercelli (Italy)
Heritage	Above VND 20,000,000	Vitale Barberis Canonico, Holland & Sherry

These are two-piece prices. A waistcoat, a pleated-bib shirt or velvet facings instead of satin add to the total, and your adviser quotes the full set before any cloth is cut. The breakdown is in our guide to what a tuxedo costs and on the price page.

What differs in the yarn

The "Super" number after the word wool is, simply, the fineness of the fibre. The higher it is, the finer the yarn, the softer the cloth, and also the less tolerant of abrasion. So Super 140s is not automatically better than Super 120s for everyone. It feels different and asks for different care.

The wool percentage matters as much as the Super number. Essential is labelled 50% wool and Signature 80% wool. Ask to see the full composition label on the actual cloth, because the other fibre affects breathability and cleaning.

What differs in weave and hand

Put two cloths from different lines side by side and the difference is clearer than on paper.

• Kevinlli feels firm, holds its shape and copes well with Ho Chi Minh City's warm, humid weather. A practical choice for a suit worn a few times a year.
• Vercelli is the Italian cloth brand Mon Amie distributes. The surface is smoother and keeps its shape under evening light, which shows in photographs taken under strong lighting.
• Vitale Barberis Canonico is a long-established Italian mill. The cloth has a natural drape, deep colour and durability. See our separate piece on Canonico.
• Holland & Sherry is an English cloth house known for eveningwear cloths such as barathea and mohair. See Holland & Sherry.

Italian cloth tends to be softer, draping and lighter in the hand, while English cloth tends to feel firmer and stand more upright. That is a tendency rather than a rule, since each cloth also depends on weight and weave.

Suggestions by need

• A few wears a year for friends' weddings and year-end parties: Essential is a sensible starting point, especially if you care more about the fit than the label.
• Frequent wear (MCs, regular gala guests, executives): Signature gives a smoother face and holds colour well under regular use.
• One suit to keep for years, or you simply enjoy seeing the cloth difference: Heritage.
• A single occasion only: consider renting a tuxedo instead of commissioning one.

If the budget is tight, choose a sound cloth and put the effort into the fit. A well-fitted suit in ordinary cloth looks better than a loose one in expensive cloth.

Judge the cloth under real light

A tuxedo is worn in the evening, so look at the cloth under the showroom lights rather than by a window. Black can lean brown, blue or a deep neutral depending on the cloth, and you only see it when swatches sit side by side. Our piece on super black goes further.

A word from the Mon Amie workshop

Tell your adviser the occasion, how often you will wear the suit in a year and your budget. From that, the right cloth line follows, and you do not pay for what you will not use. Book a fitting at a showroom, where swatches can be compared directly. You may also read Vercelli cloth for tuxedos and our bespoke tuxedo page.