Vercelli: the Italian cloth Mon Amie distributes

Vercelli is an Italian cloth brand that Mon Amie distributes, kept in the cloth library alongside Kevinlli, Vitale Barberis Canonico and Holland & Sherry. For a tuxedo, what stands out about Vercelli is a smooth face that holds its shape under evening light. This article explains where it sits among your options and how to judge any swatch for yourself before deciding.

Vercelli in the Mon Amie cloth library

Mon Amie distributes Vercelli, so you see the cloth at the same place where your suit is made, without a string of intermediaries. In the library Vercelli sits next to other mills so you can lay swatches side by side. Each mill has its strengths: some are known for fine wool with a natural drape, others for classic barathea and mohair qualities.

Detail on each tier of cloth and its price level is in our guide to cloth tiers at Mon Amie. The price of a particular suit depends on both cloth and details such as satin lapels, a waistcoat or a pleated shirt, so your consultant will confirm it at the measuring.

What to look for in tuxedo cloth

Whether it is Vercelli or any other mill, wool for a tuxedo should meet a few conditions. These are the things to check with hand and eye.

• A smooth, matte face. A gentle sheen, not a glare, so the satin lapel has room to stand out. Why that contrast matters is covered in our piece on barathea.
• Shape retention. Crush a corner lightly in the palm and release it. Good cloth springs back and keeps few creases.
• Deep, even black. Look under both warm and white light. A good black does not drift brown or grey when the light source changes.
• Weight suited to the climate. Vercelli comes in a range of weights, so ask for a light swatch if you will wear it in a hot place; see choosing cloth weight.

Black and midnight blue

The two foundation colours of the tuxedo are black and midnight blue, and these are the two you can view in stock. Black is the standard choice for every black-tie occasion. Midnight blue, according to a familiar saying among formalwear tailors, can look even deeper and "blacker" than black under artificial light, yet shows a quiet blue in daylight.

To see the difference properly, look at two swatches side by side under showroom lamps rather than judging from photographs. To picture the two colours as finished jackets, look at TUX-001, the Black Textured Shawl Lapel Tuxedo, a black raised-weave jacket with a wide satin shawl lapel, and TUX-002, the Navy Tuxedo with Black Satin Peak Lapel, a navy jacket with black satin peak lapels. The choice between the two colours is discussed further in black or midnight blue.

Choose by how you wear it

Rather than asking which cloth is "better", ask which suits the way you wear it.

1. Worn often: put durability and shape retention first, and choose a firmly woven swatch.
2. Worn on few occasions, and you like a smooth hand: a softer swatch is possible if you accept more careful upkeep.
3. Worn in Saigon: favour a light, airy swatch combined with a suitable lining.
4. Worn in the northern cold season: ask for heavier swatches.

One honest note: an Italian name does not make a suit look good on its own. The pattern, the lapel build, the canvas and the quality of the sewing decide most of the result. Good cloth has to be cut and built correctly, which the craftsmen in the Mon Amie workshop do by hand on each client's own pattern. You can see the whole process on the made-to-measure tuxedo page.

See the cloth at a showroom

Cloth should be chosen with hand and eye. You can visit any of Mon Amie's five showrooms in Ho Chi Minh City to see Vercelli and other mills' swatches under different light, ask about weight, and lay a swatch next to a strip of satin to see the contrast. The nearest branch and the opening hours are on the showroom page. When you are ready, book a fitting at a showroom so your consultant can have swatches ready for your needs.