Wool-mohair: cool, crisp and lustrous tuxedo cloth

Wool-mohair is a breathable, well-structured tuxedo cloth with a natural lustre, which is why it is often suggested for wear in hot climates. Mohair comes from the Angora goat and is stiffer and shinier than sheep's wool, so blended into wool it gives a cloth that feels slightly crisp, creases less and glints softly under lights. The trade-off is that it is not as supple as pure wool, and not every wearer likes that feel.

How mohair differs from sheep's wool

Mohair fibre is long and smooth, with a straighter, glassier surface than sheep's wool, which has scales and crimp. The smooth surface reflects light evenly, and that is the source of the characteristic shine. The fibre is also stiff and resilient, so when folded it tends to spring back rather than keep the crease.

Mohair suiting for tailoring is almost always a blend with wool, mohair making up part of the yarn in a proportion that varies by mill. Blending keeps the look and airiness of mohair while the cloth stays easy to cut, sew and wear.

A natural lustre under the lights

Unlike a sheen that comes from a finish or from synthetic fibre, mohair's lustre comes from the fibre itself. It is not glaring but a fine, slightly watery light. Under evening lamps the surface glints softly, especially where the cloth folds.

In a tuxedo that suits a man who wants some life in the cloth while staying within black-tie spirit. It is still a degree of shine, though, so beside a satin lapel you need to judge whether the two surfaces still separate. Our article on tuxedos in softly lustrous cloth covers that balance.

Resists creasing, suits hot climates

Two reasons mohair is popular where it is hot and humid.

• Breathable. The stiff fibre and a slightly open weave leave small gaps for air to move, so the cloth releases heat and moisture better than many denser cloths of the same colour.
• Resists creasing. Thanks to its resilience, the cloth springs back after long sitting, getting in and out of cars, or a spell in a garment bag on the way to a party.

For anyone moving between venues in Ho Chi Minh City, or attending an outdoor wedding, these are practical gains. Some mohair blends are woven openly enough to sit close to tropical wool, so the two articles are worth reading together.

The drawback: a firmer hand

To be straightforward about it:

• The cloth feels somewhat firm and drapes less softly than a fine merino. The jacket stands well but may lack a smooth, close feel.
• Some wearers find the surface slightly rough against bare skin, particularly at the collar.
• The lustre can be livelier than a man who wants a completely matte tuxedo would like. In that case barathea or grain de poudre will suit him better.
• It is usually positioned above ordinary wool, so it can affect which price line a suit falls into.

Care that keeps the lustre clean

Since lustre is mohair's strength, keep it clean. After wearing, brush lightly with a soft brush and hang the jacket on a shaped hanger so the cloth recovers. If it needs smoothing, use steam held at a distance instead of pressing the iron onto the face, because pressure and heat can leave hard shiny patches that do not go away. For small stains, a dry cleaner used to formalwear is better than dabbing at home with water.

Who it suits

Wool-mohair suits a man who wears a tuxedo in warm places, likes a jacket that holds its shape and needs little re-pressing, and does not mind a touch of sheen on the body. It is less suitable if you prioritise softness or need a perfectly matte black.

When to ask your tailor

The sound test is to see and feel the cloth, since lustre and firmness cannot be judged from a photo. A Mon Amie consultant can place a wool-mohair swatch beside pure wool so you can compare handle and sheen before deciding. Read about the process at made-to-measure tuxedo and book a visit at a showroom.