Keeping Trouser Creases and Satin Stripes Sharp

A sharp crease and a flat stripe are what make a pair of tuxedo trousers look finished, and they are also what degrade fastest when mistreated. The short rule is to hang the trousers by clips at the hem so their own weight pulls the crease straight, to steam along the crease rather than press it dry, and never to put an iron on the satin stripe.

Why the crease and stripe need separate handling

A crease is made with heat, moisture and pressure, then set into the wool. So heat, moisture and pressure can restore it, and misplaced pressure can ruin it. The stripe, called galon in Vietnamese, is a band of satin or grosgrain stitched down the outside seam. It is glossy, smooth and sensitive to heat: a hot iron laid straight on it can leave blotchy shine, flatten it, or with synthetic satin even melt it.

The two sit side by side, so one careless pass with the iron can spoil both. You can see them on models such as TUX-015, ivory with black trousers carrying a satin stripe down the side, and TUX-017, a deep navy tuxedo with a black satin stripe down the trouser leg.

Hang them by the hem

The good way to hang trousers is to clip both hems into a clip hanger and let them fall straight. The weight of the trousers pulls the crease long and flat while the cloth breathes. The clips should have padded jaws so they do not mark the hem.

The alternative is to drape them over the bar of a hanger, folded along the crease. A narrow or hard bar can leave a horizontal line at the knee, so choose a bar that is padded or covered in cloth. Avoid folding trousers over a thin wire hanger; that cross crease is harder to remove than a faded one.

When hanging, pull the legs straight so the two creases line up, and button or clip the waistband so the trousers do not twist.

Steam the crease, do not iron the stripe

When a crease fades or wrinkles, steam it instead of pressing it dry. The safe method:

1. Fold the trousers along the old crease, legs together, with the stripe lying neatly along the outer edge.
2. Lay a clean damp cloth, a thin cotton tea towel, over the top.
3. Steam from a short distance, or press lightly and lift, without sliding the iron.
4. Let the cloth cool and dry completely on a flat surface before hanging.

The core point is that the stripe never meets the iron. Keep it outside the pressed zone or shield it with a thick layer of cloth, and press only the wool around it. If you feel unsure, a cleaner with tailoring experience will do it better. The principles of pressing are in pressing a tuxedo without shine, and the stripe itself is explained in the satin stripe on the trouser leg.

Fold along the crease when travelling

When a tuxedo travels, the crease is the first thing to go, because a suitcase compresses. You should:

• Fold the trousers along the crease, hems together, and lay them over the edge of the jacket or between sheets of tissue.
• Use a lined garment bag and avoid packing hard objects against them.
• Take them out the moment you arrive, hang them by the hem, and let them hang in a steamy bathroom so the crease recovers.

Rather than compressing, lay the trousers flat and leave room to breathe. If you can, carry the suit in a hanging garment bag instead of a case.

Restoring a lost crease

If the crease has faded completely, begin with steam as above. If the crease is in the wrong place, or there are two parallel lines, do not add more pressing. The old crease has to be pressed out and a new one set, which is surer in the hands of a tailor or an experienced cleaner. Once a line has become a shiny streak from a too-hot iron, it is very hard to remove completely, so prevention is cheaper than repair.

Check the trousers a few days before an event, not on the morning. A full list of checks is in the checklist before wearing a tuxedo, and the habit after a party is in what to do after every wear.

Ask a tailor if the stripe is the problem

If the stripe has lifted at the edge, puckered, or lost its sheen in patches after a wrong pressing, take the trousers to a tailor rather than trying again. A stripe can be unpicked and stitched back straight. Book a visit to a Mon Amie showroom so a specialist can see the real condition before the event.