Protecting your tuxedo from moths and damp

A wool tuxedo suffers from two main enemies in a hot, humid climate: damp mould and moths, whose larvae eat wool. Prevention comes down to four things: keep cedar and moisture absorbers in the wardrobe, air the suit regularly, never put it away while it still holds sweat or dirt, and deal with mould early. Prevention is always cheaper than repair.

Understanding the two enemies

Damp and mould. Mould grows when humidity is high and air is stagnant. The damp spring in northern Vietnam, or the long rainy spells in Ho Chi Minh City, are when wardrobes turn humid most easily. Mould leaves white, grey or green spots on the cloth and a sharp smell; on satin it can leave marks that are hard to remove.

Moths. Adult moths do not eat cloth; their larvae feed on keratin in wool and silk. They like dark, quiet places that are rarely disturbed, and they are drawn especially to garments with sweat, food or wine on them. The damage appears as small holes or thin patches in places that are seldom seen, such as folds and the inside of the collar.

Both thrive in the conditions a suit creates when it hangs untouched for months. So habit matters more than any product.

Cedar and moisture absorbers

Cedar gives off an aromatic oil that deters insects, and comes as blocks, hanger rings or balls for the wardrobe. Note that cedar repels rather than kills moths, and its scent fades. Every few months, sand the surface lightly with fine paper to bring the scent back, or replace it. If moths appear even with cedar in place, cleaning the suit is what really matters.

Avoid mothballs (naphthalene) with formalwear: the strong smell lingers in the cloth and does not belong on a suit you wear to a party.

Moisture-absorbing sachets or crystals (silica gel, charcoal, absorber granules) in the corner of the wardrobe lower the humidity. Replace or dry them as the product directs, since they stop working once full. In a large wardrobe, a small dehumidifier in the room also helps in the dampest months. Aim for a moderate level rather than overly dry air.

Use these together with the breathable cloth bag and wooden hanger described in storing your tuxedo between wears, and not with a sealed plastic cover.

Airing it regularly

Moving air is the simplest free defence against damp. Every few weeks during the humid season, take the suit out of the wardrobe and hang it somewhere breezy in the shade for a few hours. Do not hang it in strong sun, which fades black and navy and makes fibres brittle.

While it airs, open the garment bag and the wardrobe doors so air circulates, and use the chance to check the folds, the inside of the collar and the seams for anything unusual. That way you catch problems early. Checking a tuxedo you have not worn for a while walks through it step by step.

Never store it while it still holds sweat

After a party the suit has absorbed body warmth, sweat and perhaps a little food or wine. Put it straight into a bag and wardrobe and you create moisture and give moths a meal.

• Air the suit somewhere breezy for at least one night before storing it.
• Brush off dust, look for fresh stains and treat them at once.
• For a heavily worn suit, have it dry cleaned at the right moment before long storage; see after each party in your tuxedo.
• Shirts, bow ties and cummerbunds also need to be dry and clean before they go back in the drawer.

What to do once mould has appeared

If you find mould spots, do not panic. Fresh mould can usually still be dealt with.

1. Take the suit outdoors into open air in the shade and let the mould dry out. Wear a mask if there is a lot of spore.
2. Brush gently with a dry soft brush to remove the powdery layer, brushing outward, not rubbing it into the cloth.
3. Do not wipe it with water while the mould is still damp, which spreads it.
4. Steam to freshen the surface, then air until fully dry.
5. Take it to an experienced dry cleaner if the mould has soaked in or the smell will not go. Say clearly that it is mould, and ask them to protect the satin.
6. Clean the wardrobe: wipe the inside, let it dry and refresh the absorbers before hanging anything back.

On satin, mould leaves marks that are hard to reverse, so do not try strong chemicals such as bleach. If you find moth holes, separate the suit from your other clothes, clean it and the wardrobe, then ask a tailor whether it can be mended.

Ask the tailor at Mon Amie

If your tuxedo shows signs of mould or moths and you are unsure what to do, bring it in so a tailor can see the condition of the cloth. Book a visit at the showroom and your consultant will set aside time for you.