A Tuxedo as an Heirloom: Passing It Down to Your Son

Some tuxedos stay in a wardrobe for years, until the day a son opens the door, tries the jacket on and realises it has lost none of its worth. That does not happen with every suit. But with a made-to-measure one cut from good cloth and looked after carefully, it can. This article looks at what lets a tuxedo become an heirloom, and how to prepare for it.

Made-to-measure can be altered for the next wearer

A ready-made suit is usually cut close with almost no spare cloth. A made-to-measure suit is different: the tailor leaves seam allowances in several places, such as the shoulder, back, body, trouser waist and hem, so it can be adjusted later if needed.

That allows a jacket to be let out or taken in, within limits, to fit the next wearer. You should understand those limits. A jacket cut for a broad-shouldered man cannot be turned into one for a slim teenager; the shoulder is the hardest part to alter. But if father and son are of similar build, adjusting sleeves, body and trouser waist is usually possible. The tailor decides what is feasible after examining the actual jacket.

The piece on refreshing an old tuxedo covers what can and cannot be altered in a suit worn for many years.

Good cloth lasts

Quality wool, properly cared for, holds its shape and surface for many years. Mills with a long tradition in Italy and England, such as Vitale Barberis Canonico and Holland & Sherry, are among the cloths Mon Amie works with. Tightly woven cloth from long fibres and well finished tends to pill less and fade less over time.

Just as important is the construction inside the jacket: lining, interfacing, stitching. A suit made in a workshop with skilled hands, where seams are carefully finished, has a different lifespan from one made in haste. Mon Amie's Hoang Vy workshop has operated since 1991, with more than 50 tailors who have between 10 and 25 years of experience.

Of course no suit is immortal. Wool is still prey to moths and damp, and thread still wears. Longevity depends heavily on how you store it.

A story tied to the wedding day

For many men the value of a tuxedo lies not only in cloth and stitching but in what it is attached to. A suit worn on a wedding day carries memory: that day, the person beside you, the moment of the vows. When a son wears it, you can tell him that story.

Here is an imagined scene, not a real account of any client: a father keeps his wedding tuxedo, and twenty years later his son is preparing for graduation or his own wedding. He shows the suit to a tailor, and together they see whether it can be altered. Even if they decide in the end to make a new one, the story that comes with it remains.

You are under no obligation to hand it down. Some young men want a suit of their own, and that is entirely normal. A good heirloom is offered with a choice, not imposed.

Storing it to pass on

To keep a tuxedo intact for years, a few simple habits matter a great deal. Detailed guidance is in storing a tuxedo between wearings; the main points follow.

• Broad-shouldered hanger. Use a thick wooden hanger so the jacket does not sag at the shoulder.
• Breathable garment bag. Use cloth rather than sealed plastic, which traps moisture.
• Dry-clean sparingly. Only when truly soiled; each pressing affects the cloth. Brush off dust with a soft brush and air the suit after each wearing.
• Damp and moth protection. Keep it somewhere dry and ventilated, with cedar or a moisture absorber if you like. Check periodically.
• Store with accessories. Keep cufflinks, bow tie and studs with the suit so the next wearer has everything.
• A note to go with it. A slip of paper with the date made, the cloth and the first wearer. This is the part of an heirloom most easily forgotten.

How Mon Amie can help

If you are thinking of a suit built to last, choose a classic cut and a lasting colour, for example TUX-072, a classic black three-piece, and tell the specialist plainly that you want a suit to keep for the long term. You can book a fitting at a showroom to look at cloth and discuss the seam allowances left in.