One-button or two-button tuxedo jacket: matching your build

If you want a short answer: one button is the classic tuxedo, and two buttons are common on modern dinner suits and on jackets that stay close to a day-suit pattern. Both are correct when well cut. What really differs is the lapel line, the buttoning point, and how each makes a figure look taller or shorter.

One button: the classic, with a long lapel

A one-button tuxedo fastens at the natural waist or a little below. Because the button sits low, the lapel runs longer and opens a deep V on the chest. That V, whether shawl or peak, frames the bow tie and the white shirt in the middle, so the eye is drawn along the vertical centre of the body.

One button also keeps the jacket clean: with no second button, the line across the stomach is uninterrupted. There is only one to fasten or open when you sit or stand, which is quick and unobtrusive. The button is usually covered in matching satin for a single tone. You can read more about it in the one-button satin-covered tuxedo jacket.

Two buttons: modern, closer to a suit

Two buttons put the top button higher and make the lapel shorter. The fastening point sits near the waist, with the lower button left undone. The jacket looks more familiar to a man who wears suits every day, so a two-button tuxedo feels relaxed and less ceremonial. It also keeps the body of the jacket steadier in a lot of movement.

Even with two buttons, a tuxedo is still correct formal wear if the other details are right: satin lapels, jetted pockets, covered buttons. Remember that the lower button stays undone, as on any two-button jacket.

Effect on your build

Shorter men or a short torso: a low-set single button creates a deep V that draws the eye vertically and makes the torso seem longer. But the button should not be too low, or it shows too much shirt and unbalances legs against body. Two buttons set too high break the torso into short sections, which suits less well.

Taller men or a long torso: two buttons keep the torso compact and avoid making the jacket look longer still. One button can still look good if the lapel and button line are proportioned; the lapel should be moderate so the V is not too deep.

A fuller stomach: buttoning exactly at the waist point, with a lapel that follows the body, keeps the line straight as long as the jacket does not strain. One button is sometimes more comfortable because fewer points are under tension.

Broad shoulders, deep chest: a one-button jacket with a curved shawl lapel usually softens the shoulder line. Two buttons with peak lapels increase the squared impression.

These are tendencies only; the final result depends on torso length, shoulder width and where the tailor places the button at the fitting.

Real models to compare

• TUX-039, the black one-button shawl-lapel tuxedo: jet black, with a curved satin shawl lapel, one button, a slim cut and four small buttons on each cuff. The lapel flows from collar to chest with no points.
• TUX-087, the classic two-button tuxedo: jet black, with wide satin peak lapels, two buttons, a roomier cut than a slim fit, and satin-jetted hip pockets. It suits evenings that demand complete formality such as a gala or awards night.

Side by side, TUX-039 is soft and fine, TUX-087 is square and ceremonial. That difference comes from the lapel more than the number of buttons. For more on lapels, see choosing a tuxedo lapel.

A quick way to choose

• For the classic line and a deep V, lean towards one button.
• For a familiar jacket that holds steady through movement, lean towards two.
• For a wedding with many photographs, one button often gives a cleaner picture.
• For a long seated dinner, two buttons are often easier to wear.

Try both on your body

Where the button sits on the torso matters more than the number. At the fitting the consultant will pin the button position, and you can judge the whole picture in the mirror before deciding. Book on the appointment page, or read about our made-to-measure tuxedo service.