Bow Tie Shapes: Butterfly, Batwing and Pointed, and How to Choose

The three shapes you meet most often are the classic butterfly, the slim modern batwing and the angular diamond point. In the same fabric, the three give three different impressions. The butterfly is the familiar choice of black tie, the batwing is sharp and neat, and the diamond point has character.

Most men buying a bow tie notice colour and material but pay less attention to the outline of the wings. In fact the shape decides what the bow says about the wearer: traditional, minimal or with a touch of individuality.

The butterfly: classic wings

The butterfly is the most common bow tie for evening dress. The wings are narrow at the centre and widen gradually toward the ends, giving a butterfly outline. The edge at the tips is straight or slightly curved.

Features:

• Open wings give a full, rich look and are well suited to hand-tying.
• It comes in many widths, from slim to generous.
• It suits medium and wide lapels, especially the shawl.
• It is the safe default if you are not sure which shape to choose.

A large butterfly sets off a wing collar and a pleated shirt front and carries a clearly traditional air. That is why models such as TUX-130 take a large black velvet bow as their standard pairing. Choosing the width is discussed in choosing bow tie size for your face.

The batwing: slim and modern

The batwing has a straight form: the two wings are nearly rectangular or taper slightly toward the centre knot, without flaring at the ends. The wings are small, the edges straight, and the effect is clean.

Features:

• Slimmer and neater than a butterfly of the same neck size.
• Suits narrow lapels and a close-cut tuxedo.
• Still handsome hand-tied, though wings that are too small lose some ceremony.
• Right for a man who wants a modern, minimal look.

The batwing is popular at modern evening events and with those who wear a bow often, because it takes up little space on the chest and does not compete with the collar. On a round face, its straight edge helps balance.

The diamond point: pointed ends

The diamond point has wing ends cut at an angle to a point, like a diamond seen from the front. It is the most characterful of the three.

Features:

• Two pointed ends create an angular, distinctive outline.
• A moderate width, usually smaller than a large butterfly.
• Suits the peak lapel, because the two sharp lines echo one another.
• For men who like a personal mark, or events with a creative dress code.

The diamond point is less often seen at serious galas. If you choose it for a traditional evening, keep the bow black and in the same material as the lapel.

Quick comparison

Shape	Outline	Impression	Suits lapel	Suits occasion
Butterfly	Narrow centre, flared ends	Classic, full	Shawl, peak, medium to wide	Traditional black tie, weddings
Batwing	Straight, neat	Modern, minimal	Narrow lapel, close cut	Modern evening events
Diamond point	Pointed ends	Angular, characterful	Peak lapel	Creative events, those who like to stand apart

Which face suits which

The bow shape should balance the lines of the face:

• Round face: batwing or diamond point; straight and angular lines contrast with the soft features.
• Long face: a butterfly with open wings, adding width to the face.
• Square face: a butterfly with soft curves to ease the angular jaw.
• Oval face: nearly any shape works, so choose by occasion and lapel.

Read how to choose the size as well to match the width, because the right shape in the wrong size still does not look good.

Material and occasion

Shape also depends on fabric. A glossy satin bow has a slight lift that suits the open wings of the butterfly. Grosgrain has a raised rib that holds a straight line, good for the batwing. Velvet has body, which makes the outline look softer. You will meet this question again in satin, grosgrain or velvet bow ties.

If you plan to tie it yourself, practise beforehand with the exact shape you have chosen, following how to tie a bow tie step by step. With a large butterfly the knot can crease easily if the fabric is thin.

Try them at the showroom

The shape of a bow is hard to judge from photographs, so trying it on your own neck is the surest way. At a Mon Amie showroom a consultant can let you try all three shapes with the same tuxedo to compare. See our made-to-measure tuxedo service and book a fitting.