Black Double-Breasted Peak-Lapel Tuxedos: Models and Fit

The double-breasted jacket is the most architectural of the formal cuts: overlapping fronts, two parallel rows of buttons, a chest that looks broad and settled. Add peak lapels faced in satin and you get a black tuxedo with a serious bearing, better suited to big evenings than to casual gatherings.

Six buttons: layout and fastening

The most common cut has six buttons in two rows of three. Not every button fastens. Fastening two is the usual way, and some cuts with a denser button layout fasten four; how many fasten depends on where the buttons sit on each model, and the tailor will advise when measuring. The remaining buttons keep the symmetry of the two rows.

Two rules for the wearer:

• A double-breasted jacket is buttoned when standing and may be opened when seated, so the front does not strain and crease.
• The inside anchor button holds the underlap flat, so do not skip it.

Because the fronts overlap, accurate measurements matter more in a double-breasted jacket. A slightly crooked front shows immediately across the chest, which is why the fitting stage of made-to-measure makes such a difference.

Who it suits: tall men with moderate shoulders

The double-breasted front adds width across the chest. Tall men with moderate shoulders benefit most: the chest looks fuller while the whole figure stays balanced. If you already have broad shoulders and a deep chest, keep the lapel width and the overlap moderate so the jacket does not become one heavy block.

Shorter or fuller men can wear it too, but need a medium peak lapel, the correct jacket length and a clearly shaped waist to keep a slim line. The upward point of the peak lapel also lifts the eye, offsetting the width of two rows of buttons.

Four real models

• TUX-013: a classic double-breasted cut. The lapel is sharply cut and faced in black satin, sweeping up almost to the shoulder; flap pockets and straight trousers with a clear crease. For the man who likes the traditional silhouette.
• TUX-033: six buttons in a symmetrical layout, a wide satin peak lapel, hip pockets sewn closed so the side line stays unbroken, and a satin bow tie. The big lapel gives the shoulders a firm look.
• TUX-110: peak lapel faced in glossy black silk, black bow tie and white pocket square. Only the sheen of the lapel breaks the black, in the manner of quiet authority.
• TUX-117: sharp satin peak lapel, a black velvet bow tie, black trousers and leather shoes. Right for places where nothing can go wrong in dress.

No cummerbund needed

This is a practical advantage. When you fasten the jacket, the overlapping front covers the waist and waistband, so you do not need a cummerbund or waistcoat as you would with a single-breasted jacket. Adding a waistcoat under a double-breasted jacket only thickens the midsection and makes you warmer, so it is normally left out.

It also means you should keep the jacket buttoned when standing. If you tend to take your jacket off during an evening, a single-breasted three-piece is more practical; see three-piece tuxedo: waistcoat or cummerbund. The difference between the two button styles is covered in single-breasted and double-breasted tuxedos.

Why a double-breasted jacket needs careful fitting

In a single-breasted jacket, an error of a few millimetres usually shows only in the shoulder fold. In a double-breasted one, the overlap, the height of the button point and the jacket length all affect the shape of chest and stomach together. At the fitting, the tailor checks that the front lies flat, that the fastened buttons do not pull around the waist, and that the peak lapel follows the shoulder line. Most of these faults only show when you are buttoned and standing straight, so never judge the jacket open.

Keeping the rest simple

A double-breasted jacket already makes a statement, so keep the rest restrained: a white shirt, pleated or plain, a black bow tie, a white pocket square folded flat, and patent shoes. Avoid combining pins, flowers and patterns, since the cut has already spoken. In a hot climate such as ours, consider a lighter cloth if you wear double-breasted to a crowded indoor event; the tailor can suggest options from the cloth library.

When to ask your tailor

If this is your first double-breasted jacket, try it both standing and seated, because a coat that looks right standing can bind when you sit. Browse the black tuxedo collection, then book a fitting at Mon Amie so a consultant can measure your shoulders, chest and jacket length and advise on the button layout for your build.