The Black Shawl-Collar Tuxedo: Soft and Classic

A shawl collar has no notch and no point: it runs as one curve from the base of the collar down to the fastening button. A black shawl-collar tuxedo therefore looks soft and composed, closer to an evening spent around a dinner table than to a stiff ceremonial occasion.

One unbroken curve

The shape comes from the Victorian smoking jacket, the garment gentlemen wore after dinner in the smoking room, usually in velvet with a rounded collar. When it moved onto the tuxedo, tailors kept the curved collar and faced it in satin.

Because no notch interrupts it, the satin runs in a single line, so the upper body reads as continuous and less angular. On the wearer, chest and shoulders look smooth rather than divided by the diagonals of a peak lapel. Under party lighting, the satin throws a soft curved highlight, especially against a matte black body.

Who it suits: angular faces and broad shoulders

A peak lapel draws the eye out toward the shoulders, so on a man whose shoulders are already broad, a shawl lapel softens the whole picture. The curve also balances a strongly angular face, such as a square jaw or high cheekbones.

Tall, slim men usually look good in a medium-width shawl, because the vertical line lengthens the figure. If you have a short neck or sloping shoulders, the curve around the neck can make the neck look shorter, so try it on before deciding. The two lapels are compared in more detail in our guide to choosing a tuxedo lapel.

Four real models

All four are black, shawl-lapel and single-button, but differ in cloth and styling.

• TUX-039: a neat slim cut with a clean shoulder and slightly nipped waist, four small buttons on the sleeve, worn with a white shirt with black buttons and a black bow tie tied evenly. A good choice for a slimmer build that likes tidiness.
• TUX-062: a fine-grained, matte textured cloth set against a glossy satin shawl lapel, so the two blacks separate clearly. You can read the depth of the jacket even from a distance.
• TUX-067: all black, one continuous satin shawl lapel, slanted hip pockets trimmed in satin, and a slim black tie. It is the most pared-back of the group, with almost nothing extra.
• TUX-129: lapel and breast pocket faced in softly glossy satin over a matte body, worn with a velvet bow tie. The light here is gentle, for the man who wants richness without display.

There is a pattern: the fewer things around a shawl lapel, the more the curve shows. That is why each of these keeps the shirt white and the accessories simple.

Pairing the bow tie and shirt

On a satin lapel, a satin bow tie gives a matched look, while a velvet or matte bow tie, as with TUX-129, adds a second texture. Both are correct; the difference is how much shine you want.

For the shirt:

• A pleated or piqué front gives the full ceremonial look and suits black tie dinners.
• A plain front with black buttons is lighter, good for less formal galas or an evening wedding.
• A wing collar is especially good with a shawl lapel, since there is no notch for the collar points to clash with. A turndown collar also works, and is more comfortable for a long evening.

Keep the bow tie in proportion to the lapel: a wide lapel takes a medium to large bow, a narrow lapel a smaller one. A hand-tied bow always looks slightly better than a pre-tied one, thanks to its natural asymmetry. The full guide is in pairing a tuxedo.

Book a fitting at Mon Amie

The difficulty with a shawl collar is that the curve must follow each man's neck and chest exactly; a small error makes the lapel gap or twist. That is why the fitting matters more with this style. Browse the black tuxedo collection, then book a showroom fitting to try the lapel and be measured; the consultant will confirm the making schedule when you are measured.