Double-Breasted Shawl-Collar Tuxedos: Rare Yet Classic

Most tuxedos you see at parties are single-breasted, with a shawl or peak lapel. The double-breasted shawl-collar sits outside that group: few men wear it, so when it appears, people take a second look. The curious thing is that it is not a new invention; it is simply a classic that is seldom revived.

A rare cut that recalls 1930s evening wear

The double-breasted dinner jacket was a fashionable choice in the 1930s, and the shawl collar was one of the lapel styles that went with it. Today, when the peak lapel has become the default on double-breasted jackets, choosing a shawl for this cut gives a nostalgic feel without looking dated.

What makes it distinctive is that two kinds of line meet: the continuous curve of the shawl and the vertical rows of buttons on the overlapping front. With no notch or point, the jacket is much softer than a double-breasted peak, while the two rows of buttons still carry authority.

Three real models

• TUX-116: black, double-breasted, satin shawl lapel, worn with a pleated shirt, black bow tie and satin pocket square. It carries the full spirit of black tie and needs little added.
• TUX-119: a broad satin shawl lapel that wraps the chest, with flap pockets also trimmed in satin so lapel and pocket read as one design, and a large black velvet bow tie. Suits men with a deep chest and broad shoulders who want a dignified look.
• TUX-133: a black cloth with very fine hidden stripes, matte and upright, against satin on the lapel. You only see the stripes when you come close, so the suit looks restrained from a distance and has depth up close.

All three show one thing: on this jacket, the lapel facing matters more than any accessory. A softly glossy satin looks better than a mirror shine, because a double-breasted shawl lapel covers a large area.

Fastening and proportion

The shawl curves down and meets the button row at one point, so the position of the button point and the depth of the overlap decide the shape of the lapel. If the button point sits too high, the chest looks tight; too low, the lapel lengthens and loses its force.

A few rules of proportion:

• The lapel width should suit the width of your chest. A large lapel like TUX-119 works when the shoulders can carry it; a slimmer man should choose a medium width.
• Button it when standing and open it when seated, as with any double-breasted jacket.
• The jacket should be long enough to just cover the seat, with a clean skirt, so the two rows of buttons do not form a squared-off block.
• Choose a collar to match: a wing collar or a turndown collar both work, but the bow tie should not be too small against a large lapel.

Because overlap and lapel line are both sensitive to measurements, this jacket usually needs at least one fitting to settle the lapel against the neck.

Satin and grosgrain on the lapel

A double-breasted shawl lapel has far more satin than a peak lapel, so the gloss changes the impression. A mirror-bright satin shows every pressing mark and can look like stage wear; a softly glossy satin or a lightly ribbed grosgrain gives a quieter finish. Compare the lapel sample with the body cloth before you decide, since the two should reflect light differently without clashing.

Which events suit it

The double-breasted shawl suits evenings with a classic mood:

• A gala dinner, an opening night, a classical concert or the opera.
• A formal evening wedding, especially when the groom wants a silhouette distinct from his groomsmen.
• Themed retro parties and 1920s to 1930s style balls.

At a hot outdoor event, or when you need to move a lot, it is less comfortable than a single-breasted jacket. You can compare lapel styles and button counts in the black tuxedo collection.

Book a fitting at Mon Amie

This is a style to try in person, because the eye easily confuses the two curves. Book a showroom fitting to try the overlap and lapel width; making time depends on the model and the fitting schedule, and is confirmed when you are measured. If you are torn between shawl and peak, read choosing a tuxedo lapel.