Detachable Stiff Collars: Are They Still Used?

The detachable stiff collar is still worn, but rarely. Today it appears mainly with white tie and among enthusiasts of classic dress. For modern black tie, a shirt with an attached collar is fully correct, so most men do not need a detachable collar unless they genuinely want to live the full ritual.

History: a laundry solution

The detachable collar began for a very practical reason. The collar is the first part of a shirt to get dirty, because it sits against skin and sweat, while the body stays much cleaner. Washing the whole shirt because of the collar costs effort and wears out the cloth. According to many accounts, the idea of cutting off the collar to wash it separately is credited to Hannah Montague of Troy, New York, around the 1820s, and it spread quickly.

By the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, the detachable collar was standard in menswear. It was heavily starched, sometimes made of materials other than cloth, to hold a straight shape all evening. In time, shirts with attached, interlined collars won out for convenience, and the detachable collar retreated into formal occasions. The wider story of the evening shirt is in our article on the history of the dress shirt.

Today: mostly with white tie

In white tie, the white bow tie goes with a stiff wing collar, a starched shirt front and a white waistcoat, and the detachable stiff collar is the original choice for that outfit. Even so, many people now wear an attached wing-collar shirt for convenience, particularly if they dress this way only once or twice.

For black tie, the detachable collar is barely needed. An attached collar, wing or turndown, looks neat and is far more comfortable over a long evening. You will meet the detachable collar mostly among collectors, people dressing for ceremonies in the proper tradition, or photographers shooting in a period style. The differences between these outfits are covered in the tuxedo and the white tie tailcoat.

Attaching the collar and using collar studs

A detachable collar is not sewn to the shirt but held on with collar studs. A shirt made for one has a neckband with buttonholes at the front and back.

1. Pass the rear collar stud through the hole in the shirt's neckband and the hole at the back of the collar. This is the awkward step, so ask for help or work in front of a mirror.
2. Fit the front collar stud to hold the two ends of the collar together.
3. Fasten the chest studs downwards. The collar should sit close without choking.
4. Tie the bow tie around the neck, then check the wings if there are any.

Collar studs usually have a long shank and a small head so that they can pass through several layers of stiff cloth. A stud that is too short or too stiff can tear a buttonhole or leave a mark. Try the routine a few times before the day so that you are not fumbling.

How it feels

A stiff detachable collar is not soft. It holds a firm, upright shape, so the neck turns less easily and the chin lifts a little, which is why men in these collars often stand tall. If you are used to soft collars, the first hours may feel constricting. Sweat also softens a collar in time, so in a hot, humid climate like Ho Chi Minh City you should carry a spare.

Is it worth buying

The short answer: only if you really need one. Consider these points:

• Do you have a genuine white tie event, or wear ceremonial dress often? If so, a detachable collar is worth it.
• Do you collect, or follow a classic style? It is an enjoyable detail.
• Do you need one suit for an ordinary wedding or gala? An attached-collar shirt is more convenient and perfectly correct.

If you are unsure, start with a stiff-front or piqué shirt with an attached collar, described in our piece on stiff-front shirts. When a real need arises, think about the detachable collar then.

When to ask your tailor

If you are weighing a detachable collar for a special occasion, ask a consultant about a made-to-measure shirt with the right neckband and how it is attached in practice. You can see more about our tuxedo tailoring and book a showroom appointment to talk it through with a tailor in person.