Old Tuxedo Rules: Which Ones Have Faded and Which Still Apply

Most of the old tuxedo rules about accessories have relaxed, while the rules about fit and finish have hardly moved. You can leave your hat and gloves at home and no one will notice. But a tuxedo that is loose in the shoulders, a pre-tied bow tie sitting crooked or shoes without a shine will still be spotted at once.

Rules that have relaxed or faded

Hats. Men once wore a top hat with white tie, or a homburg or fedora with black tie when outdoors. Today almost no one wears a hat to a gala. In Vietnam you can treat it as unnecessary, unless the evening has a deliberately period theme.

Gloves. White gloves belong to white tie and very traditional balls. For black tie they are barely expected. If you like them, thin grey or black leather gloves are fine outdoors in cold weather, but take them off when you enter the hall.

The compulsory waistcoat. The old rule said a waistcoat or cummerbund must cover the waistband and shirt. Today many men wear a two-piece tuxedo with well-fitted high-rise trousers alone, and this is accepted at weddings and company dinners. Still, a waistcoat or cummerbund makes the outfit cleaner and more formal, so keep one for a serious evening.

Watches. The classic view held that checking the time at a gala was bad manners, so men wore either no watch or a pocket watch. Now a slim watch on a black leather strap, in a polished steel or gold case and without a bulky chronograph, is perfectly acceptable.

Pocket squares. They used to be white linen, folded flat. Now coloured silk or lightly patterned squares are worn quite freely, as long as they sit well with the bow tie and are not loud.

The black necktie. Some people see it as the modern option, but for traditional black tie the bow tie remains the standard. We go into this in bow tie or necktie with a tuxedo.

Rules that have not changed

A close, correct fit. The shoulder seam sits at the edge of your shoulder, the jacket skims the waist, the sleeve shows about a finger of shirt cuff, and the trousers do not pool on the shoes. No accessory can rescue a loose suit.

A hand-tied bow tie. A pre-tied bow is convenient, but a real knot has a slight, natural irregularity that a clip-on never has. People who know can tell. If you cannot tie one yet, practise; it is a skill you can learn in an evening.

Shiny shoes. Patent leather or highly polished black oxfords, or opera pumps. Suede, trainers or casual leather soles spoil the whole outfit.

Controlled colour and cloth. Black or midnight blue, satin or grosgrain facing, a white shirt. Colour and pattern are choices made on purpose, not defaults.

Buttoning correctly. A single-breasted jacket is buttoned when you stand and opened when you sit. The bottom button of a waistcoat stays undone.

Applying the rules in Vietnam

A hot, humid climate and the fact that many events take place in hotels, convention centres and large restaurants give Vietnam a few particular concerns.

• Choose breathable cloth. Lightweight wool and a light lining keep you comfortable when moving from hot outdoors to a cold room.
• Cummerbund or waistcoat. If it is hot and the room is crowded, a cummerbund is lighter than a waistcoat.
• Read the invitation first. Many cards say black tie while guests arrive in anything from tuxedos to dark suits. Aim one level higher rather than lower, and check our dress code page to compare levels.
• Weddings and company dinners. Guests are often relaxed about accessories, but the people at the centre, such as the groom, the host or performers, should keep to the standard.
• A moderate difference is fine. A velvet bow tie or a handsome lapel pin is acceptable; a large-pattern tuxedo belongs to invitations that say creative black tie.

For a complete walk-through, read the rules for dressing a tuxedo and common tuxedo misconceptions.

When to ask your tailor

If you are unsure whether to keep or drop a detail, ask a consultant before the suit is made, not after. Book a fitting at Mon Amie to choose an outfit that matches the level of your event, and then decide whether you need a waistcoat, a cummerbund or simply one really good bow tie.