Self-tie vs pre-tied bow ties: which should you choose

If you know how to tie one, choose the self-tie: it looks natural, has a slight asymmetry that is its signature, and it is how gentlemen have worn black tie. If you are new to it or need to change in a hurry, a well-made pre-tied bow tie is still acceptable, as long as you choose one that does not give itself away. What matters is that the bow fits your neck, matches your shoulders and suits the material of the lapel.

Self-tie: natural and full of character

A self-tie bow tie is a long strip of fabric that you tie around your neck. The wings are never perfectly symmetrical: one side sits a little higher than the other, the centre knot is slightly off, and the folds differ every time. That slight irregularity gives it character and is the familiar sign of a man at ease in evening dress. It is why many gentlemen regard tying it as part of the ritual.

Advantages: it fits the neck to the centimetre because you can adjust the tension, it looks natural, and it can form the small dimple at the centre of the knot. Disadvantages: it needs a few attempts to learn, and a rushed tie gives a loose knot with a drooping wing. You can learn from how to tie a bow tie and avoid the common bow tie mistakes.

Pre-tied: even, but easy to spot

A pre-tied bow tie is already sewn into the finished butterfly shape and attached to a neck strap with a metal hook. You simply hook it on and adjust.

Advantages: quick, nothing to learn, both wings match, and it never comes undone. Disadvantages: too even becomes the giveaway. Perfectly symmetrical wings, a centre knot as flat as a mould, a short strap that sometimes peeks out behind the collar, and a metal clasp that can catch on the shirt collar. Anyone who has looked at a self-tied bow will notice.

Who should use which

Choose the self-tie if:

• You attend a strict black-tie event or are a groom or performer who needs the correct appearance.
• You can spare a few evenings to practise.
• You want the bow to fit your neck exactly, large or small.

A pre-tied bow tie is acceptable if:

• You are new to this, wearing a tuxedo only once, and have no time to practise.
• Your hands are not nimble, for example from tremor or joint pain.
• You must change quickly between programmes, as a host or event staff would.

A practical tip: if you are not yet fluent, practise at least a few times before the event. Once it is familiar, the tie takes only seconds.

How to recognise a good pre-tied bow tie

Not every pre-tied bow tie gives itself away. A good one has these marks:

• Fabric: silk or grosgrain, with depth, not the plastic gleam of polyester. The material should match the lapel facing: satin for satin lapels, grosgrain for grosgrain.
• Wing shape: slightly asymmetrical, with soft edges, not stiff like cardboard. Some better ties are stitched to give the wings a natural drape.
• Centre knot: it has a fold and a little fullness, not flat as a table.
• Strap: long, adjustable, with a small hook, sitting low behind the collar and never showing.
• Size: the width of the bow is in proportion to the lapels and shoulders. Too large or too small throws the whole outfit off.

Try it in front of a mirror and look from the side: if the wings look like a toy, choose another.

By dress code

For strict black tie, the self-tie is always the safer choice. For a cocktail evening or black tie optional, a good pre-tied bow tie rarely draws attention. For more on the setting, see the dress code page.

Try the bow with your suit

A bow tie looks right only when it suits the shirt collar and the lapel. At the showroom you can try several shapes and fabrics beside the tuxedo, and the consultant will show you how to tie it on your own neck. Book on the appointment page.