Not Used to Formal Wear: How to Get a Comfortable Tuxedo

Plenty of men spend the week in T-shirts and open collars, then find themselves in a tuxedo for a friend's wedding. Feeling restricted the first time is normal, and most of it comes from details you can control: the cut, the cloth, the lining, the collar and the bow tie. Choose these well, rehearse beforehand, and you can wear a tuxedo and still feel at ease.

A cut that is not too close

A close fit looks excellent in catalogue photos but takes practice to wear. If you are not used to it, choose a comfortable fit with a little ease across the chest, shoulders and back. The test is simple: raise both arms to shoulder height, cross them in front of your chest, and sit down. If the jacket pulls hard across the back or the collar rides up, it is too tight.

A comfortable fit does not mean baggy. A bespoke suit can still look neat and leave room to move, because the tailor puts the extra ease where it is needed, in the back and underarm. If you are new to this, you also do not need a double-breasted front or extra layers. TUX-087 is a classic two-button tuxedo with a simple shape that is easy to wear.

Stretch cloth and a breathable lining

A little stretch in the wool, a small proportion of elastic fibre, lets the garment follow you when you sit, bend and dance. See stretch fabric for tuxedos for more. Do not go for too much stretch, because the jacket loses its shape and looks cheaper.

The lining decides the feel as well. A fully lined, glossy, non-breathing lining heats the back and sticks to the shirt. A breathable lining, a half lining or one made from a fibre that breathes will be more pleasant over a whole evening. If you know you run hot, tell the tailor in advance.

Collar and shirt

The collar is the thing that bothers newcomers most. A tight shirt collar makes you stretch your neck, flush and struggle to breathe once the bow is on. A correct fit lets you slip one finger between collar and skin when it is fastened. A soft cotton shirt cloth that is not too stiff also helps a great deal.

Studs and cufflinks feel unfamiliar at first. Practise fastening them a few times at home.

A good pre-tied bow

If you cannot yet tie a bow, a pre-tied bow with an adjustable strap is a sensible solution, provided it is well made: a balanced knot, wings with some shape, and a strap and clasp hidden at the back of the neck. Cheap ones have flat wings, which you can spot with a close look. A hand-tied bow looks better but takes practice. The piece on hand-tied and pre-tied bows compares them in detail.

Whichever you use, centre the bow on the neck, keep the two sides even and do not make it too tight.

Wear it at home first

This is the most valuable advice for a beginner. When you collect the suit, wear the whole outfit one evening at home, with the shirt, bow tie, shoes and studs. Do what you will do at the event: sit to eat, stand for a while, walk around, raise your arm for a photo, and dance a few steps.

Note anything that bothers you: neck, underarms, waistband, shoes. If there is a problem, tell the tailor early so it can be adjusted before the event. Do not wait until the morning of the party to find that the shoes pinch or the waistband digs. You can use our pre-event tuxedo checklist for this.

Habits that help

• Unbutton the jacket when sitting and fasten it again when standing, which is the proper way to wear a suit.
• Drink water and avoid a heavy meal before dressing.
• Wear shoes that have already been worn a few times, not brand-new ones.
• Carry a handkerchief and a spare clip for the bow.

Advice from the Mon Amie workshop

If you tell us plainly that you seldom dress formally, the tailor will choose the cut, cloth and lining for comfort rather than appearance alone. See our bespoke tuxedo page, then book a fitting for advice in person.