Tuxedos for Athletic Builds: Cut for Comfort and Movement

Men who train a lot fall exactly into the zone that ready-made clothing handles poorly: large chest and shoulders, a narrow waist, big biceps and thighs. A tuxedo that fits the shoulder is tight at the arm; one that fits the chest is loose at the waist. To look good and still move, you need made to measure with four points in mind.

A large drop between chest and waist

Ready-made jackets are cut with a fixed difference between chest and waist. An athletic man has a much larger difference, which puts him in a bind: choose the jacket by the chest and the body is loose around the waist, the skirt flaring; choose by the waist and the chest strains, the button pulls and X-shaped creases show across the front.

Made to measure separates the two numbers. The tailor cuts the chest to the chest and takes in the waist to the waist, so the jacket follows the V shape and still lets you breathe. Tell the tailor if you are in a muscle-building phase, because your measurements may shift. The article on tuxedos for broad shoulders and chest covers the shoulder side.

Sleeves with room for the biceps

A large bicep is often the first place a jacket feels tight. The signs: the sleeve clings, horizontal creases form at the elbow when you bend the arm, or the jacket rides up the back when you reach forward.

• The armhole must be big enough for the arm not to bind against the cloth.
• The upper sleeve needs room, then tapers towards the wrist.
• Test with real movements: holding a glass, shaking hands, hugging a relative, raising an arm for a photo. These test the pattern far better than standing straight.

If you make the sleeve very wide just to be safe, the shoulder and chest grow with it and the shape is lost. A made-to-measure tailor adjusts the armhole and sleeve separately without touching the shoulder.

Why off-the-peg is hard to fit

This is not a fault of the body but of mass-market sizing:

1. The upper and lower body do not match, so you buy the size for the larger part and alter in many places.
2. A waist can only be taken in so far on a finished jacket, and a tight bicep or chest cannot be let out if there is not enough seam allowance.
3. Trousers have the same problem: large thighs mean a loose waistband, or a fitting waist and tight thighs. The article on big thighs and a full seat deals with this.

A tuxedo with satin facings and a lining holds its shape poorly after repeated alteration. Cutting it right from the pattern is usually cleaner than altering again and again.

Cloth with some stretch

Wool blended with a small share of elastic fibre (elastane) lets the jacket follow your movement while keeping its formal appearance. For a trained man it is a practical choice, because the arms, shoulders and thighs keep moving as you sit, dance and raise a glass. The article on stretch cloth for tuxedos goes into the fabric.

Some cautions with stretch:

• Stretch is a support, not a replacement for a correct pattern.
• Too much stretch can cost a dress garment its crispness; the tailor weighs this cloth by cloth.
• The lining should move easily too, so the back does not bind.

Which styles suit

A broad frame suits many styles. A few thoughts:

• A shawl lapel softens the shoulder block; a peak lapel stresses the V. Both work, depending on taste.
• A single-breasted jacket is usually cleaner on a muscular upper body.
• The fit should be close but not tight. TUX-089 is a black fitted tuxedo with a shawl lapel; on a trained man, check carefully for room at the bicep and chest.
• TUX-048 is a black two-button tuxedo in a classic cut with peak lapels, giving a straighter and more generous line.

At the fitting

Do not simply stand straight. Raise both arms forward, out to the side, sit down, twist as if shaking hands. If the cloth pulls across the back or the jacket climbs at the collar as you move, the tailor needs to adjust. Most problems are solved at the first trial.

Booking a fitting at Mon Amie

The adviser measures chest, waist, armhole, bicep and thigh as separate numbers. See the made-to-measure tuxedo page, and book a fitting so there is time for a careful measure.