Tuxedos for Men with a Belly: Cut and Fit

A belly does not stop you wearing a tuxedo well. What ruins the line is usually cut in the wrong place: a front panel that is too short, buttons under strain, a cummerbund wrapped around the fullest point, a belt cutting into the stomach. Fix those, add a few choices of style and cloth, and most of the problem goes away.

One button and a peak lapel that pulls the eye down

A single-breasted jacket with one button gives a long, deep closing line that draws the eye vertically rather than across the stomach. A peak lapel runs straight from shoulder to button and underlines that direction. Two buttons also work, but the closing point should sit above the navel, so the button does not land on the fullest part.

Double-breasted is the style most likely to go wrong if cut carelessly, because the overlap puts extra cloth right in front of the stomach. If you like it, ask the tailor to cut a trial first.

Real models in this direction: TUX-018 is a navy one-button tuxedo with black satin peak lapels, and TUX-130 is a black one-button tuxedo with satin peak lapels.

Waistcoat or cummerbund

A cummerbund is a wide band wrapped around the waist. On a small, balanced stomach it is handsome. On a man with a belly it draws a horizontal line across the fullest point and tends to slip or roll when he sits, so it is not the safe choice.

A waistcoat keeps one unbroken vertical line from neck to waist, covers the trouser top and shapes the stomach discreetly. A deep-cut or V waistcoat, properly fitted, feels neat.

• Pick a waistcoat in the jacket's colour so the upper body reads as one block.
• Avoid a waistcoat that is too short or pulled tight at the bottom button.
• It must also fit when seated: you should be able to breathe and lean forward comfortably once it is fastened.

The article on three-piece tuxedo: waistcoat or cummerbund examines the two choices in more depth.

A high rise, with braces

Men with a belly often wear trousers that sit under the stomach, so the trouser top, the belt and the shirt all fold at the same point. With a tuxedo the right approach is the reverse: set the rise high, at the natural waist above the belly, held by braces rather than a belt.

• A high rise encloses the stomach and gives one long line from chest to hip.
• Braces hold the trouser steady without cutting across the stomach as a belt does.
• A tuxedo traditionally has no belt, and side adjusters at the waist are neater.
• The waistcoat or jacket covers the high rise, so the front stays flat.

The exact height depends on your build, so the tailor will mark it while you stand naturally. The article on high or low trouser rise deals with that question separately.

Dark colour and fluid cloth

Black, deep navy or midnight blue make the body outline more continuous. A cloth with good drape, heavy enough to hang from the body, does not cling to the stomach. Avoid cloth that is very thin, shiny or has a large horizontal pattern; they show every curve.

The shirt matters as much. A well-fitted shirt in firm cloth with a flat front keeps the chest balanced. See tuxedo shirts for men with a belly.

How a tailor handles a belly

For a man with a belly the tailor does more than let out the waist. The front panel is rebalanced: the front hem needs a little more length so it hangs level rather than lifting over the stomach. The prominence of the stomach is built into the pattern so that the button does not pull and the jacket does not ride.

Things to discuss at the fitting:

1. Stand naturally while you are measured. Do not pull the stomach in; the numbers should reflect how you really stand.
2. Tell the tailor whether you will sit or stand for most of the event.
3. Bring the shirt you plan to wear, and your braces if you own them.
4. Mention any weight change you expect before the event.

Booking a fitting at Mon Amie

At the showroom the adviser measures you in your true stance and lets you compare button positions and waistcoat cuts by eye. See the made-to-measure tuxedo page or book a fitting to choose a time.