Midnight Navy One-Button Tuxedo

About this tuxedo

A midnight navy with a flat, quiet surface and no metallic sheen. The black satin peak lapels are of medium width and the points rise clearly, making the shoulders look slightly broader than they are. The jacket has a single button right at the waist, a moderate length and two hip pockets trimmed in satin and sitting in balance. A white silk pocket square stands evenly out of the chest pocket, neat and restrained. The navy trousers, cut from the same cloth, have a moderately full leg and a more relaxed fit than the slim versions, so it stays comfortable through a long evening.

This is the easiest to wear of the coloured tuxedos: formal enough for a wedding, understated enough for a corporate dinner, and almost never out of fashion. Wear it with a white shirt, a hand-tied black bow tie and polished black shoes. If the occasion is more relaxed, you can replace the bow tie with a slim black silk tie and the overall look still holds its shape.

Mon Amie often suggests the navy version to gentlemen wearing a tuxedo for the first time, because it is more forgiving than black under lights and in photographs. When making it, the tailor measures your shoulders, chest, waist, hips, sleeve and jacket length, then cuts on your own pattern. You choose the fabric, the inner lining colour, and whether to have your name embroidered on the inside chest lining. The fitting is the time to adjust the waist and sleeve length so that the right amount of shirt cuff shows.