Dressing in a tuxedo: the right order

The order in which you put on a tuxedo is largely dictated by the structure of the outfit itself: whatever has to be fixed while it is still in your hands goes first, and whatever creases and stains easily goes last. In short: fit the studs and cufflinks to the shirt, put on the shirt, attach the braces and put on the trousers, add the cummerbund or waistcoat, tie the bow, put on the shoes and only then the jacket. Follow that order and you will never undress to start again, and the jacket will still be smooth when you walk into the room.

Step 1. Prepare before touching the suit

Shower, shave, comb your hair and apply fragrance before you dress, because steam, shaving cream and cologne can all soil a shirt collar and the satin of the lapels. Put on over-the-calf socks from the start so that no skin shows at the ankle when you sit. A thin skin-toned undershirt can go on first if the shirt cloth is light.

Lay the suit out on the bed or a hanger and check each item: shirt, studs, cufflinks, braces, cummerbund or waistcoat, bow tie, pocket square. A checklist before wearing a tuxedo helps you avoid forgetting a small item at the last minute.

Step 2. Fit the studs and cufflinks to the shirt

This is the step many men get wrong simply by doing it too late. Studs go through the buttonholes in the shirt front, and fitting them while the shirt lies on the table is far easier than once it is on, because you can see clearly and you do not crease the cloth. Both layers of the placket must pass over the same stud, with the head facing outward. Details on choosing and fitting are in the piece on shirts with studs.

Cufflinks also go in first. Fold the cuff back so the two edges meet, pass the link through all four layers of cloth, and only then slide your arm in. If you wear double cuffs, see the article on French cuffs and cufflinks.

Step 3. Shirt, then braces and trousers

Put on the shirt and fasten the studs from the top down, leaving the collar down and the bow tie untied. Smooth the shirt tails flat.

Next comes the trousers. A classic tuxedo uses no belt but braces that button to the inside of the waistband, so attach the braces to the trousers before putting them on. Step in, pull the trousers up to the waist, tuck the shirt in neatly, then bring the braces over the shoulders and adjust so the waistband sits at the natural waist. Details are in the guide to braces.

Step 4. Cummerbund or waistcoat

The cummerbund goes around the waist with the pleats facing up, covering the waistband and the shirt just above it. A low-cut waistcoat is buttoned from the bottom up and hides the waistband completely. The two are not worn together, and choosing between them is covered in the three-piece tuxedo: waistcoat or cummerbund.

Step 5. Tie the bow

Raise the collar, drape the self-tie bow around the neck and tie it, then fold the collar down over the band. Tying after the cummerbund or waistcoat lets you stand straight and judge the picture in a full-length mirror. Tie in front of a mirror at chin height rather than looking down.

Step 6. Shoes, then the jacket

Sit to put on the patent shoes and use a shoehorn so as not to crush the trouser hem. Stand and check how the hem meets the shoe.

The jacket is always last. Put it on, fasten the single button while standing, fold the pocket square into the breast pocket and add the lapel pin if you wear one. When you sit, unbutton the jacket.

Tips against creases and stains

• Hang the jacket on a shaped hanger rather than folding it into a bag; if you must carry it, use a suit carrier and keep it flat.
• Dress close to the venue if the journey is long or the weather hot, and put the jacket on only as you arrive.
• Cover the shirt collar with a towel when styling hair or using hairspray.
• Do not stuff the jacket and trouser pockets; it drags the line of the cloth and makes it bulge.
• Keep a small lint roller in your bag to remove hair and dust before entering.
• Touch the satin lapel as little as possible; fingerprints dull the sheen.

Notes from the Mon Amie workroom

When you collect a made-to-measure suit at Mon Amie, a stylist can walk you through the sequence once so your hands learn it, especially the studs and the self-tie bow. You can book a visit to the showroom and read more about pairing a tuxedo.