How to style a navy tuxedo

A navy tuxedo is easier to style than most men think: white shirt, black or navy bow tie, polished black shoes, black or navy socks and a white pocket square. Navy is dark enough to keep the formality of black tie yet softer than black, so the job is to keep everything else clean and let the colour of the jacket speak for itself.

The jacket: black or navy lapels and bow

The first decision is the lapel. There are two routes:

• Black satin lapels on a navy ground. A gentle contrast that lights up under the lamps, and the most familiar look. TUX-011 is cut this way: deep navy, black satin peak lapels, one button.
• Navy lapels in the same tone. Smoother and more unified, with less contrast, for the man who prefers a discreet look.

The bow tie follows the lapel. Black lapels take a black bow, so the satin on the chest reads as one colour. With same-tone navy lapels a navy bow also works, but it should be satin or grosgrain, never a woollen cloth. You can soften the look with a medium-width navy silk tie, as the TUX-011 notes suggest, but for a black-tie evening a black bow remains the safe answer.

Some say navy must be chosen very dark to read as midnight blue. That depends on the cloth and the light. Look at the fabric under showroom lamps and in daylight before you decide.

The shirt: clean white

A crisp white shirt with a small wing or turndown collar, pleated or piqué front, or a fly-front shirt to keep the chest flat. Avoid pale blue or striped shirts: they compete with the navy jacket and spoil the clean contrast of white.

Choose cufflinks and studs in silver to suit cool navy, or in gold if you want warmth; the point is to choose one tone. More detail in a safe colour palette for tuxedo dressing.

Polished black shoes, black or navy socks

Shoes are where you should not experiment with colour. Black patent or polished black lace-up oxfords are the standard. Brown shoes look less serious, although they are sometimes seen at relaxed parties. For more, read polished oxfords for a tuxedo.

Socks should be over-the-calf, so that no skin shows when you cross your legs. Two choices:

• Black socks: neutral, joining the shoe into one dark mass.
• Navy socks: small but refined, repeating the jacket colour. Use them only if the navy is dark enough not to read as bright blue socks.

Avoid white socks or loud patterns with a navy tuxedo.

The white pocket square

Navy and white make a natural pair. A white silk square, folded flat or with one point, rising about a centimetre above the breast pocket, is the single point of light you need. TUX-011 is also shown with a white silk pocket square.

If you want an accent colour, a pale blue square or one with a navy edge works, but do not add a coloured bow as well. More than two accents makes the outfit busy.

Trousers: matching cloth or satin stripe

Trousers in the same navy cloth make a matched suit. For a more formal occasion, trousers with a satin side stripe tell the room this is true formal wear, as on TUX-034: a navy tuxedo with satin peak lapels, a single button and trousers with a satin stripe. The stripe runs straight and even only if the seams match the shape of the leg, so the leg measurements must be taken with care.

Some men pair a navy jacket with black trousers for ease, but under dim light the gap between navy and black can show, as if two suits had been joined. If you want that, look at the cloth first.

Try it at Mon Amie

Navy comes in dozens of shades, from a deep blue close to black to brighter blues, and you only see the difference by comparing cloth under lights. TUX-011 and TUX-034 both belong to the Midnight Blue and Navy collection. Come and see the real cloth, and try it with the bow, shirt and shoes, at the Mon Amie showroom.