How to Choose a Tuxedo: Fit, Cloth, Lapels and Colour

When choosing a tuxedo, work in this order: fit first, then a cut that suits your build, then a cloth that suits the climate and how often you will wear it, and only then the lapel style and colour. A simple black tuxedo that fits perfectly will always look better than an elaborate one with wide shoulders and long sleeves. Here is what a tailor looks for when you stand in front of the mirror.

Fit comes before everything

A tuxedo carries less ornament than a suit, so every flaw in the fit shows, particularly under evening lighting. When you try one on, check:

• Shoulders: the shoulder seam ends at the edge of your shoulder bone, with no dent or ridge at the top of the sleeve.
• Collar: the jacket collar sits against the shirt collar, with no gap at the back of the neck when you stand straight.
• Button: fastened, the front lies flat, with no X-shaped pull around the button.
• Sleeves: about 1 cm of shirt cuff shows, enough for your cufflinks to appear when you move your arms.
• Jacket length: the hem covers the seat, not cut short in the fashion style.
• Trousers: the waistband sits at your natural waist so the cummerbund or waistcoat covers it, and the hem just touches the top of the shoe, with no turn-ups.

Traditional tuxedo trousers have no belt loops, so the waistband must fit properly, with side adjusters or braces. This is why a made-to-measure tuxedo usually fits far better than one off the rack.

Choosing a cut for your build

No single tuxedo suits every man. The table below is a starting point; your advisor will refine it once you are measured.

Build	Good choices	Think twice about
Shorter or slight	One-button jacket, medium peak lapels, the whole outfit in black or midnight blue	Double-breasted jackets, very wide lapels, a jacket that runs past the seat
Tall and slim	Medium to wide shawl collar, a three-piece with waistcoat, double-breasted jackets	A very close cut that makes you look thinner still
Fuller, with a stomach	One button for a long V, peak lapels that lead the eye to the shoulders, a low-cut waistcoat	Double-breasted jackets, a conspicuous cummerbund
Broad shoulders, athletic	A shawl collar to soften the chest, enough room in the upper sleeve	Heavy shoulder padding, oversized peak lapels

For a slim build, a close cut like TUX-089, with a satin shawl collar and a low button stance, flatters the line of the body. If you prefer more ease, a classic two-button cut such as TUX-048 moves comfortably through a long evening.

Cloth: matching climate and how often you wear it

Traditional evening wear is often made in barathea or grain de poudre, both tightly woven with a matte face that holds its shape well. In Ho Chi Minh City, favour a lightweight wool or a wool and mohair blend, which breathe better and recover from creasing after hours at the table.

If you will wear the tuxedo several times a year, invest in a cloth that keeps its colour and shape. If you need it for one occasion only, renting makes more sense; see our tuxedo rental service. Mon Amie's cloth library includes Vercelli, Kevinlli, Vitale Barberis Canonico and Holland & Sherry, and your advisor will lay several swatches side by side so you can compare them under the light.

Velvet is a category of its own: superb for year-end parties, but usually made as a jacket only and worn with black trousers.

Lapels and facings

The shawl collar and the peak lapel are the two traditional tuxedo lapels. The notch lapel is common, but it borrows from the business suit and reads as less formal. Each style is discussed by build and face shape in shawl, peak or notch.

As for facings, satin is glossy, stands out under the lights and photographs clearly, while grosgrain has a fine horizontal rib and a quieter, more matte finish. The bow tie should match the facing, and so should the covered buttons and the trouser stripe. That small consistency is what separates a well-considered tuxedo from an ordinary one.

Colour: for the occasion and your complexion

• Black: safe for every black tie occasion and every skin tone.
• Midnight blue: as formal as black, with its own depth under electric light; flattering on both fair and darker skin.
• Ivory: for warm-weather evenings, garden and beach receptions; worn with black trousers.
• Burgundy, jewel tones, patterns: suited to creative black tie, year-end parties or the stage, with restrained accessories.

You can browse our five colour collections on the collections page.

Budget

Made-to-measure tuxedos at Mon Amie come in three lines for a two-piece: Essential from 4,800,000 to 10,000,000 VND, Signature from 10,000,000 to 20,000,000 VND, and Heritage above 20,000,000 VND. The price depends on the cloth and on details such as satin or velvet lapels, a waistcoat or a pleated shirt. Full details are on the pricing page.

How Mon Amie can help

Our advisors at Mon Amie's five showrooms will measure you, let you try sample cuts, and set cloths side by side so you choose with your own eyes rather than from photos. Making time depends on the model and your fitting schedule, and your advisor will confirm it when measuring you; alterations remain available after you collect your tuxedo. Book a showroom appointment.