A Tuxedo You Haven't Worn for a While: Pre-Event Checks

A tuxedo that has sat in the wardrobe for a few years should be taken out and examined early, at least a few weeks before it is needed, and in a set order: try it on to see whether it still fits, look for mould, moths and yellowing, check the buttons, zip and seams, and only then work out what to alter. The aim is to find problems while there is time to deal with them, not to stand in front of the mirror on the afternoon of the party.

Try it on first

This is the most useful test because it decides everything after it. Put on the whole outfit: shirt, trousers fastened as they should be, jacket buttoned. Stand straight, walk a few steps, sit, and raise your arms. Watch for:

• Strain at the button, or a diagonal crease radiating from it.
• Whether the shoulder still ends at your shoulder point, and whether the collar hugs the neck or stands away.
• Whether the waistband closes without holding your breath.
• Whether the sleeve and trouser lengths are still right when you stand straight.

If your weight or shape has changed, read weight change: how much can a tuxedo be altered to see where letting out or taking in stops. Remember to try the shirt and shoes too, because sometimes those are what no longer fit.

Mould, moths and yellowing

Open the bag and smell the suit before anything else. A sharp or damp odour suggests mould. Then examine it in good light:

• Mould: white, green or grey spots, usually in the folds, inside the collar, on the lining and around the buttons. Humid, muggy weather makes this easy, particularly when the suit was stored in a sealed plastic bag.
• Moths: small round holes in wool, specks of debris, tiny cases in inner folds. The larvae eat wool fibre and favour dark, closed places with a trace of perspiration: underarms, beneath the collar, inside pockets. Look at the inside as well as the outside.
• Yellowing: at the collar, underarm and cuff edge, and clear on light colours. Old perspiration marks often appear after storage.
• Crushed or shiny patches: if the suit was squashed in a crowded wardrobe, satin lapels and velvet can be marked.

If you find mould or moths, move the suit away from other clothes straight away so it does not spread, then take it to a professional cleaner and tell them what you saw. Do not spray it yourself; a strong chemical can leave a ring on cloth and satin.

Buttons, zip and seams

Pick the jacket up and go over it by hand:

1. Buttons: front, cuffs and trousers. Re-stitch a loose shank; replace a frayed covered button.
2. Zip and hook: run the fly zip and the waist hook. A stuck zip or crooked teeth usually needs replacing rather than a tidy repair.
3. Seams: underarms, side seams, the crotch, pocket corners. Thread that has changed colour or is showing signals a weak seam, which should be reinforced first.
4. Lining: the underarm and back linings often give way after long storage. A split lining shows the moment you take the jacket off at the party.
5. Lapels and stripe: look for scratches, lifting edges or shiny streaks. If you see any, read damaged satin lapels.

Do not forget the accessories: bow tie, cummerbund, cufflinks, pocket square. The complete list is in the checklist before wearing a tuxedo.

Clean and press before the event

After the inspection, have the suit dry cleaned and pressed to restore the shape, release the wardrobe smell and flatten the lapels and creases. Tell the cleaner what you found. Do not press directly onto the lapel or stripe; see pressing a tuxedo without shine.

Leave time to alter

A check is only useful if you still have time to act on it. Repair time depends on the job and the workroom schedule, so do not wait until the last minute. Try the suit on while the event is still distant, leaving room for a second fitting after the alteration. If the suit no longer fits or is badly damaged, that same margin lets you plan a new one without a rush. If it needs a new lining or lapel facing, refreshing an old tuxedo will help you decide which jobs are worth doing.

Bring it in for a tailor's eye

If you are unsure you have checked everything, bring the suit to Mon Amie. A tailor will have you try it on, look at the lining and seams, and say plainly what to repair and what to leave. Book a visit to the showroom well before the event so there is time to adjust.