Tuxedo Sleeve Buttons: How Many, and Should They Work

A tuxedo sleeve usually carries three or four buttons, covered in cloth or made of horn, and the buttonholes may be real or purely decorative. Most wearers never look closely at this detail, but for someone ordering a suit it has two practical consequences: how the jacket looks at the wrist, and how easily the sleeve can be altered later.

Four covered or horn buttons are the usual choice

The most common arrangement is four buttons in a straight row on each cuff. Three also appears, especially on slimmer jackets. The number is aesthetic: four gives a fuller, more traditional look, while three feels cleaner and more modern.

As for the material of the buttons:

• Covered buttons. Covered in the same satin as the lapel or in the body cloth. This is the standard tuxedo choice, blending into the sleeve and matching the front button.
• Horn buttons. Matt black or dark brown with a natural grain. Handsome and durable, more often used on suits than on tuxedos, though matt black horn suits a dinner jacket well.
• Metal buttons. Used only when the jacket is deliberately showy, such as a metallic-sheen jacket; not the classic tuxedo choice.

Sleeve buttons should match the front button so the outfit stays consistent.

Working buttonholes (surgeon's cuffs) and what they mean in made-to-measure

A working buttonhole, also called surgeon's cuffs or working cuffs, means the sleeve buttonholes are cut through and can actually be opened and fastened. With fake buttonholes the buttons are simply sewn onto the cloth and there are no holes.

In the bespoke trade, working cuffs are generally seen as a sign of careful work: each hole is made individually, often by hand, and it is only possible when the sleeve is constructed properly. A story often told says the name "surgeon's cuffs" comes from surgeons who needed to roll up their sleeves. That is only an anecdote, with no firm documentation, so do not take it as established history.

Some men leave the last button undone to show the working hole, jokingly called "kissing buttons" when they overlap. With a tuxedo, fastening every button is the more formal way; leaving one open is a fashion habit rather than a rule of the evening.

A caution: working cuffs make sleeve alterations harder

This is the point to understand before you order.

Working buttonholes fix the position of the buttons on the sleeve. If you later need the sleeve length changed, the tailor must move the buttons and holes or adjust the sleeve from the shoulder, which is far more involved and sometimes cannot be done without leaving marks on the cloth. With fake holes it is easier, since the tailor just removes the buttons and sews them on again in the new position.

The practical result is this:

• If your build may still change, or your sleeve length is hard to judge, fake buttonholes are the safer choice.
• If your build is stable, you have been measured carefully and like the finesse of handwork, working cuffs are worth considering.
• For a jacket worn rarely, or just once for an event, fake holes are entirely adequate. Other people can hardly tell the difference.

Whichever you choose, let the tailor check sleeve length carefully at the fitting, because a tuxedo should show about a finger's width of shirt cuff, usually with cufflinks. Our piece on signs of a carefully made tuxedo says more about details that reveal craftsmanship.

Choosing according to your needs

A simple guide.

Your need	Suggestion
Wedding, worn once or a few times	Three or four covered buttons, fake holes
Frequent galas, stable build	Four covered or horn buttons, working holes
Build still changing	Fake holes for easy adjustment
Subtle and discreet	Working holes, buttons in the cloth colour
Light-coloured dinner jacket or velvet	Covered buttons in the same colour; fake or working depending on budget

The overall construction of the jacket, sleeve and lapel included, is summarised in how a tuxedo jacket is built.

A tailor's suggestion

At the measuring, tell the consultant how often you will wear the suit and whether your build may change, so you can decide between working and fake buttonholes. You can read about the options on the made-to-measure tuxedo page, then book a fitting at the showroom to see the buttons and holes on real cloth.