Gloves with a tuxedo: when you need them, when not

For modern black tie, gloves are not required. You need them in only two situations: a pair of thin leather gloves for walking outdoors in cold weather, and a pair of white gloves if the ball is explicitly held in the traditional dancing manner. Otherwise, bare hands are entirely correct.

Grey or black leather gloves for cold weather

This is the practical glove that goes with a tuxedo. The leather is usually lambskin or kid, thinly cut and lined with silk or cashmere, and it should fit the hand closely so it does not bulk up inside the sleeve of your overcoat. Grey suits a charcoal overcoat; black suits a black or deep navy one.

One thing to remember: leather gloves belong to your outdoor clothing, not to the tuxedo itself. You wear them from the car to the lobby, then take them off and leave them with your coat and scarf at the cloakroom. Walking into the dining room with knitted or sports gloves still on is the mistake we see most often.

In Ho Chi Minh City you will almost never need them. But for an event in Da Lat, in Hanoi during the cold season, or abroad, a thin pair keeps your hands from stiffening and keeps the line of the overcoat clean. We cover coats and warmth more fully in wearing a tuxedo in cold weather.

White gloves for dancing

White gloves belong to white tie and to classic ballroom evenings. By old custom a gentleman wore them when partnering a lady in the dance, so that the warmth of his hands would not mark the silk of her gown. The material is usually thin white leather or white cotton, long enough to cover the wrist.

Today white gloves appear only at balls staged in the classic European manner, or when the invitation asks for them. If the invitation says nothing, leave them at home; in a modern room a pair of white gloves can look like costume. For a dance evening, what matters more is a shoe that is comfortable enough and a suit loose enough to turn in, as covered in the dance and ball night guide.

Never while shaking hands, eating or drinking

The traditional rules are clear, and worth keeping:

• Handshake: remove your right glove before offering your hand. Shaking through a glove is considered impersonal, unless it is bitterly cold outside.
• At the table: take both gloves off before you touch the napkin, cutlery or glass.
• Stowing them: tuck them into an overcoat pocket or an outside pocket of the jacket. Do not lay them on the table or over your shoulder.
• Holding a glass, taking photographs with friends: bare hands.

The practical consequence is that gloves always need somewhere to go. That is why most men carry them only when they also have a coat with a roomy pocket.

Where gloves still appear today

With a tuxedo, gloves are still seen in a few places:

• Balls and dance evenings run on classic lines, where the invitation says white tie or asks for gloves.
• Photo shoots, performances and stage sets that want the atmosphere of a century ago.
• A groom dressed in classic style, photographed outdoors in the cold season, when a pair of grey leather gloves gives the pictures more depth.

At an ordinary wedding, gala or award ceremony you can skip them altogether and no one will notice.

Choosing size and storing them

If you do buy a pair, try them on both hands and close your fist a few times. Leather gloves should fit snugly without squeezing the fingers. Spare length at the fingertip folds into creases; a tight finger stretches the leather and cracks it sooner. Avoid anything thick, because it shows under the jacket sleeve and stops the shirt cuff from appearing at the right length.

Keep gloves dry and flat, never folded hard. Wipe them with a soft cloth after use and keep them away from heat. In a humid climate like Saigon's, a sachet of silica gel in the box helps.

Tips from the Mon Amie workroom

Gloves are a minor accessory, but how the sleeve is cut decides whether glove and cuff sit comfortably together. When you come in for your measurements, tell the tailor if you plan to wear gloves, so the width and length of the sleeve can be adjusted. You can book a fitting at Mon Amie, and the rules for pairing a tuxedo will help you plan the rest of the accessories.