Wing Collars: Tips in Front of or Behind the Bow Tie

With a wing collar, the bow tie sits in front and the two collar wings rise and show behind it, one on each side of the knot. In short: wings behind the bow is correct. When the wings fold forward over the bow, the whole neckline looks tangled and the tie seems trapped by the collar, which is a fault to avoid.

A wing collar has an upright band around the neck and two points turned outwards. That structure leaves the front clear for a bow tie, unlike an ordinary turndown collar, which folds down and covers the neck.

The correct position

Here is the order of dressing:

1. Fasten the collar band with the collar stud or button so that the band stands upright.
2. Place the bow tie around the neck, outside the band, and tie the knot in the centre.
3. Adjust the wings so they sit on either side of the chin, the tips pointing outwards and slightly up, framing the back of the knot.

From the front you should see the knot and the two ends of the bow clearly, with the wing tips just showing behind like a frame. This is the familiar picture of classic black tie and white tie. If you are weighing a wing collar against a turndown, read our comparison of wing and turndown collars with a tuxedo.

The fault: wings over the bow

The usual fault is a wing that folds forward and lies over the bow, normally for one of three reasons:

• The collar is too large, the band does not stand, and the wings slide down.
• The bow is tied too low or is too small, leaving room for the wing to fall in.
• The wing was folded the wrong way when dressing, instead of being left to open outwards.

The cost is not only visual. A bow pressed by a wing becomes misshapen and creased, and you end up adjusting it all evening. If the wings are creeping forward, undo the bow, fasten the band more firmly and retie the bow a little higher.

Size of the wings and the bow

The wings and the bow should balance each other. An easy rule: the bow should not be wider than the space between the wing tips, and not so small that it sinks between them.

• A medium to wide bow suits a wing collar, especially with a cummerbund or waistcoat.
• A very small bow makes the wings look oversized and overbearing.
• Long, pointed wings need a bow of enough width to match. Short wings pair with a neater bow.

You can read more about bow shapes and proportions in our guides to tying a bow tie and to lapel, bow tie and shirt collar proportions.

Keeping the wings from springing up

Wings that curl up like bird feathers are a common complaint, especially in hot weather when sweat softens the collar. To keep them flat and close to the neck:

• Choose a collar with the right stiffness: a collar built with a firm interlining, or lightly starched, holds the wings better than a soft one.
• Fasten the band stud firmly enough that the band stands straight, without a gap.
• Make sure the collar leaves room for one finger. A loose collar lets the wings drift and spring.
• When ironing, press the wings while slightly damp and let them cool flat before wearing.
• Tie the bow neatly and not too tightly, because a tight bow drags the band upwards and pops the wings out.

Store the shirt with the collar flat, never folded over the wings. A wing creased for a long time leaves a mark that is hard to remove.

Occasions for wing collars

The wing collar belongs to traditional evening dress, above all white tie. For black tie it remains correct and gives a distinctly classic look, though the turndown collar is more common in practice. If you want a formal, slightly nostalgic image for an evening wedding or a gala, the wing collar is the right call.

How Mon Amie can help

A snug wing-collar shirt must be cut to your exact neck, since a few millimetres of difference is enough to let the wings drift. A consultant in the showroom can let you try the collar with a real bow tie before you decide. Book a fitting at Mon Amie to see which style suits your face and your tuxedo.