Plum Red Tuxedos: A Deep Red with a Purple Glow

Plum red is a deep red with a purple glow, like a ripe plum: warmer than purple, cooler than a pure red, and softer than burgundy. If burgundy is the colour of wine in candlelight, plum is the colour of cloth that turns a corner under a lamp and suddenly slips toward purple. It suits the gentleman who wants to stand out quietly.

How it differs from burgundy

From a distance the two are easily mixed up, but side by side the difference is plain. Burgundy leans brown, dense and heavy. Plum leans purple, a notch lighter, and shifts: red here, purple there, depending on angle and lamp. TUX-020 is described in just this way, a plum cloth that changes toward purple as you move.

There is a practical consequence: plum lives on light. Under warm lamps the red comes forward. Under white light or flash the purple rises. Before you decide, see the cloth under both. If you want straight burgundy, read burgundy tuxedos: who they suit and when.

Four real models

All four are in Burgundy & jewel tones, each a different shade.

• TUX-020: plum red shifting toward purple, black satin peak lapels, a shirt with onyx buttons and a lapel pin. The colour shift shows clearly in this one.
• TUX-024: plum leaning purple, a trim, youthful cut, black satin peak lapels, one button, black trousers and patent shoes. For a balanced build that likes a clean line.
• TUX-030: a deep plum with broad black shawl lapels, one button and a close cut. The shawl makes the suit softer and more elegant.
• TUX-061: ripe plum leaning purple, deep and warm, with high-rising black satin peak lapels. For the man who wants to be remembered.

All four use black lapels. Plum with black facings is the familiar pairing because black pulls the colour toward formality and away from feeling too "fashion".

Shawl or peak lapel

This question sets the character of the suit.

Peak lapel. The point of the lapel rises and spreads toward the shoulder, widening the shoulder line and giving structure. On a plum that is already dense, the peak keeps the whole from going soft and heavy. It suits tall men, straight shoulders and anyone who likes an authoritative line. TUX-020, TUX-024 and TUX-061 take this route.

Shawl lapel. One continuous curve with no corner. It reads as graceful, close to the spirit of the classic smoking jacket, and gentler on a vivid colour. TUX-030 takes this route. It helps a man with an angular face, since the rounded lapel balances it.

If unsure, see how to choose a tuxedo lapel and try both on.

Styling with an ivory shirt

With plum red, an ivory shirt usually looks better than optic white. Stark white beside a purple-red can look cold and glaring, while ivory is warmer, melts into the plum and softens the skin. Choose a piqué or small-pleat front and a turndown or wing collar depending on the level of formality.

Accessories to go with it:

• A hand-tied black bow tie in the shade of the lapel, to keep the formal axis.
• Cufflinks and studs in black onyx, or soft gold for warmth.
• A flat ivory-white pocket square. Avoid a purple one, which looks like deliberate matching.
• Black patent shoes and black trousers with a satin stripe.

When should the bow tie change colour? A black velvet bow already adds depth. Do not switch to red or purple, since plum carries enough hue of its own.

Who it suits, and when

Plum red suits year-end parties, arts galas, warm and intimate weddings and a groom who wants to stand apart from his groomsmen without going too far. On skin tone, the purple glow tends to suit fair and neutral complexions. Deeper skin can still wear it if you choose a deep, ripe plum like TUX-061. Try it in front of a mirror rather than trusting a rule.

One reminder: this colour belongs to creative black tie and is not a base black-tie colour. If the invitation says strict black tie, ask the host, and read what black tie means.

From the Mon Amie workshop

The purple glow of plum cloth appears properly only in real life, so the safe way is to visit a showroom, see the cloth under several lamps and try both peak and shawl lapels. The tailor will measure you and give the specific making time at the fitting. Book a fitting here.