Tuxedos for the Middle-Aged Figure: Sloping Shoulders, Belly

After forty the body changes in fairly predictable ways: the shoulders slope more, the back curves forward a little, the stomach fills out and the trouser waist drifts down. None of this makes you less elegant in a tuxedo, but ready-made garments rarely keep up. A made-to-measure suit answers with four things: light shoulder padding, a jacket adjusted to your posture, a trouser waist set in the right place and a cut that is comfortable yet neat.

Sloping shoulders need light padding

Sloping shoulders fall steeply from the neck to the shoulder point. A ready-made jacket is cut for a squarer shoulder, so on you the shoulder point stands up and leaves diagonal creases from the collar toward the armhole.

• Cut the shoulder line to your actual slope, so the jacket shoulder never sits higher than your own.
• A thin, light pad is enough to even out the slope and give a straight line without the padded look. A pad that is too thick looks stiff and dated.
• If your shoulders are uneven, the pad thickness differs from side to side.

This overlaps with our piece on narrow and sloping shoulders in a tuxedo, which looks at each shoulder type more closely.

A slight stoop

A forward-curving back and head position is common among men with long years at a desk. It makes the jacket collar stand away from the neck, creates a horizontal crease across the back and drags the front skirt upward.

• The tailor adjusts the collar and back panel to the curve of the spine: the back may be cut a little longer and the back neck fitted closer.
• The front skirt is balanced so the jacket does not ride up when you stand tall.
• One important point: stand naturally at the measuring and do not brace. If you force yourself upright, a suit built on that posture will not suit you when you relax.

A stoop is nothing to worry about. It is simply information the tailor needs.

A fuller midsection and the trouser waist

A fuller stomach pushes the trouser waist down and out over the waistband, which forces the jacket open and produces diagonal creases at the button.

• Set the trouser rise at the natural waist, above the navel, rather than under the stomach. A high rise holds the stomach instead of being pushed down by it.
• Braces keep the waistband steady without needing a belt. A proper black tie outfit is traditionally worn without a belt.
• Some extra room in the jacket over the stomach, so that when you button it the cloth hangs flat and does not pull.
• If you wear a cummerbund, keep it the colour of the suit.

Our guide to tuxedos for a fuller stomach goes into the cut of the jacket body.

Comfortable but neat

At this age many gentlemen choose a looser cut for comfort, which is understandable. Too loose, though, and the suit sags; too tight and it is awkward during a long dinner. A relaxed classic cut is a sensible middle:

• Right at the shoulder, straight through the body, a gentle waist to keep the V without squeezing.
• Enough room in the sleeve at the elbow to raise a glass and shake hands easily.
• Straight trousers with room in the thigh, and a half lining so they hang lightly.
• A light wool with a little stretch and good breathability for a long evening.

Two models to look at: TUX-048 is a black two-button tuxedo with a relaxed classic cut and satin-faced peak lapels, and TUX-087 is a black two-button with wide satin peak lapels and a comfortable classic fit. Both are starting points; the final cut is adjusted to your figure.

Colour and details

Black or midnight blue with matching satin facings remains the safe choice. A white shirt with a piqué or lightly pleated front, a hand-tied black bow tie and a white pocket square keep it classic. Avoid loud patterns or fussy accessories; your tailoring is what deserves attention.

When to ask the tailor

If every jacket you try on has a gaping collar, creased shoulders or sliding trousers, tell the tailor at the measuring. A master cutter has seen these figures many times and knows how to adjust the pattern. See made-to-measure tuxedos and book a fitting at a showroom. Making time depends on the model and the fitting schedule, and your consultant will confirm it when you are measured.