Grooming for black tie: hair, beard and skin

A beautifully cut tuxedo still falls short if the haircut is raw at the edges, the stubble is patchy or the nails are untidy. A man who has taken care of himself, by contrast, makes the whole outfit look sharper. The preparation does not need to be complicated, only well timed and thorough.

Cut your hair a few days ahead, not that morning

A fresh haircut is often stiff, with a visible line at the edges. Trimming the nape or shaving the temples on the day of the event leaves newly exposed skin paler than its surroundings, which shows in photographs. Cutting a few days before lets the hair settle into its natural fall and the skin even out.

A few pointers:

• Nape and around the ears should be tidy and tapered, never shaved too white.
• The style should show a clear parting or be swept neatly back, the classic look that suits a tuxedo. Hair that touches the shoulders will brush the collar.
• Wax or paste should be matt and light-hold; avoid wet-look gel, which can smear on the shirt collar. Use a modest amount and comb it through.
• If you colour grey hair, do it well before the event so the shade can settle.

If you have a fitting booked, get the haircut before the final fitting so the tailor sees the overall picture correctly.

A tidy beard, or a clean shave

There are two routes, and both are fine if they are clear:

• Clean-shaven. Shave in the morning and use a light after-shave balm to avoid redness. If your beard grows fast, shave again in the afternoon before dressing, since evening stubble shows in photographs. Avoid shaving right before you dress, as sensitive skin can flush under the shirt collar.
• A trimmed beard. Keep the line sharp on the cheek and neck and the length even. Trim it a few days ahead so the cut edges soften; on the day only correct stray hairs.

Either way, check around the lips, under the chin and along the neck where the bow will sit close. Trim nose and ear hair too.

Skin, nails and a light fragrance

Skin. Moisturise face and hands the day before. Dry lips need balm. Stage lights and flash show oil on the forehead and nose clearly; blotting paper or a little translucent powder is enough, with no heavy make-up.

Hands and nails. The tuxedo cuff opens the hands to view when you hold a glass, shake hands or adjust a bow. Nails should be short, clean and filed smooth. Dry skin around the nails needs attention well beforehand.

Fragrance. A light, warm or woody scent, applied to the wrists and beside the neck, never on the jacket, because it can stain wool or leave marks on satin facing. One or two sprays. In a closed, crowded room, a heavy scent is tiresome. Let it dry before you dress.

Breath. Brush your teeth, use mouthwash, and carry a light mint rather than chewing gum in company.

A last look in the mirror

Stand in front of a full-length mirror, a step back, in good light:

1. Collar and bow: the bow straight, wings balanced, no shirt collar peeping under the chin.
2. Studs and cufflinks: all present and lying straight, a little shirt cuff showing beyond the sleeve.
3. Shoulders and lapels: no creases, no lint, cloth lying flat.
4. Pocket square: neat, standing up modestly.
5. Trousers and shoes: hem breaking once on the shoe, shoes clean, soles free of dirt.
6. Pockets: not bulging. Leave wallet, phone and keys elsewhere.
7. Face and hair: check the profile, and the back of the head with a hand mirror if you have one.

Run a lint roller over the shoulders and back; a black jacket shows dust and dandruff at once.

You can also work through the full list in the checklist before wearing a tuxedo, and read portrait photography in a tuxedo if the event involves many photographs.

Book a fitting at Mon Amie

If you have a final fitting, arrive with the hair and beard you will wear on the day. The collar, bow and overall effect will then be judged as they will really look. You can find our addresses on the showroom page and book a fitting at a showroom.