Jewellery with a tuxedo: rings, chains, earrings

With a tuxedo the principle is less, and finer. Traditional black tie leaves room only for cufflinks, shirt studs, a slim watch and a wedding ring. Everything else, from chains to earrings, is a personal extension to add only when the occasion permits and when you are comfortable with it.

Less, and finer

Evening dress already has its bright areas: the glossy lapel, the white shirt, the bow. Jewellery should add a gentle glint, not compete. An easy rule: at most three or four points of exposed metal, such as cufflinks, watch and a ring. The studs sit within the shirt front and are not counted separately.

Studs and cufflinks always come as a set. For more on choosing them, see choosing cufflinks and shirt studs.

Wedding band and signet ring

A wedding band is always allowed and worn as usual.

A signet ring (engraved crest or monogram) is a classic piece of menswear and suits a tuxedo because of its traditional character. By Western custom, a signet is usually worn on the little finger of the non-dominant hand. Choose a compact face in matt or modestly polished metal. Large stones, multi-faceted rings or several rings at once ruin the classic effect.

If you wear both, put them on different hands so no one hand carries too much metal.

Chains: when they are acceptable

A chain is not part of traditional black tie. If you want one, keep a fine chain entirely inside the shirt, or let it show only when the collar is open at a no-bow event. A thin gold or silver chain with a small pendant is right; avoid thick links or large stones.

A chain is most at home at creative events, arts evenings or when you are wearing a tuxedo without a bow; see wearing a tuxedo without a bow tie. At white tie or any formal ceremony, keep the shirt closed and leave the chain off.

Bracelets, especially lucky-charm bracelets, have their own article, auspicious bracelets with a tuxedo, on wearing them without disturbing the formal line.

Earrings: when they are acceptable

A small men's earring, such as a plain stud, a pearl or a minimal diamond, can go with a tuxedo at fashion or arts events and year-end parties. Here it belongs to personal style, not to formal accessories.

The conditions: one small stud or a small pair, the metal in tone with the rest, nothing that hangs or dangles. On solemn occasions such as another person's wedding, an award ceremony, a diplomatic reception or white tie, it is better removed. If an earring is already part of how you look, a minimal one is acceptable at most evening events as long as the rest of the outfit is correct.

Matching metal with your cufflinks

What makes jewellery look polished is consistent metal:

Metal family	Cufflinks and studs	Rings, watch and chain
White tones: silver, platinum, white gold, steel	Silver or mother-of-pearl, black onyx	Steel watch case, silver ring, silver chain
Yellow tones: yellow gold, rose gold	Gold, or onyx set in gold	Gold watch case, gold ring, gold chain

Pick one family and follow it. The wedding band is an accepted exception. The watch usually follows the cufflinks, though a black leather strap gives some latitude. More detail in matching metals across accessories.

Some classic combinations: TUX-102, a black single-button shawl-lapel tuxedo with a pleated shirt and black studs, suits matt black links and a slim black-dial watch; TUX-049, in champagne gold, suits links in a warm gold tone.

A last check

Before leaving the house, look in the mirror and count the pieces of metal. If more than four show, take one off. Turn the cufflinks so they lie flat, and make sure the watch strap does not sit on the shirt cuff.

How Mon Amie can help

At the measuring, bring the watch, cufflinks or ring you plan to wear. The tailor can then judge sleeve and shirt-cuff length and link colour accordingly. You can book a fitting at a showroom to try everything together.