Yacht Parties: White Dinner Jacket or Black Tuxedo

For a yacht party at dusk, an ivory dinner jacket is the traditionally correct choice, while a black tuxedo remains right when the party starts late or the host says black tie. The real decision rests on the particulars of a boat: wind, sun, a wooden deck and a smaller space than a ballroom.

Wind, sun and decking: what to allow for

A yacht is not a hotel suite. Three environmental factors shape how you dress.

• Wind: on deck, wind flips a long tie over your shoulder and pulls a pocket square out. A hand-tied bow tie therefore suits better than a long tie. Fold the pocket square firmly and flat rather than puffed. Keep the jacket buttoned when you stand on deck so the fronts do not flap.
• Sun: even late in the day, light reflecting off the water is harsh. Dark colours absorb heat, light colours stay cooler. If the party starts while the sun is still strong, an ivory jacket in a light, airy cloth will be more comfortable than black.
• Decking: boat decks are often slippery when wet and easily scuffed by hard soles. This is why owners often ask for soft-soled shoes.
• Space: narrow passages and steep steps mean the jacket should not be long and the trousers should not be too wide or trailing.
• Water and salt: sea spray, sauce and wine mark white cloth easily. Keep a clean handkerchief to hand.

Ask the owner or organiser about the departure time, the route and whether you will go ashore, because that decides your shoes and extra layer.

Ivory suits an early-evening party

The white or ivory dinner jacket is linked to warm climates and outdoor evenings. It is associated with summer resorts and the tropics, where gentlemen wanted to keep formal dress yet stay cooler than in black. The classic way to wear it: ivory jacket, black trousers with braid, white shirt, black bow tie, black patent shoes.

• TUX-106 is an ivory shawl-lapel jacket with a cummerbund and black trousers.
• TUX-015 is an ivory shawl-lapel jacket, suited to a lighter party.
• See also the ivory and dinner jacket collection.

Why does ivory suit late afternoon? The golden light at day's end warms the cream and contrasts well with black lapels and trousers, while pure white can glare under strong sun. The shade also feels lighter and cooler over water. More on wearing it in the white tuxedo and dinner jacket and bright white or ivory.

Choose the black tuxedo when:

• The invitation says black tie plainly and the host wears black.
• The party starts late, after dark, or spends much time in an enclosed cabin.
• You would rather worry less about marks on white cloth.
• The trip includes going ashore to a restaurant, where black suits better.

Some people bring both and change by the hour: the white dinner jacket at sunset, the black tuxedo for the later part. If you can bring only one, ask the host.

Soft-soled shoes

Shoes are the point most often overlooked on a yacht, and the one owners care about most because of the decking.

• Rubber or soft soles: they grip the deck and do not mark it. Many boats ask guests to remove hard soles or stiletto heels.
• Patent loafers or opera pumps with a thin, soft sole: keep a dress look while walking lightly. See opera pump shoes and loafers with a tuxedo.
• Dark leather boat shoes: acceptable at a less formal party, but not suited to strict black tie.
• Ask first: some owners ask for bare feet or boat-only shoes; carry your shoes in a cloth bag to change.
• Socks: thin, the colour of the trousers, long enough that no ankle shows when you sit.

Avoid hard-soled leather oxfords if the deck is wet, since they slip.

Do not dress too heavily

On the water, perceived temperature changes fast: hot in the sun, cool in a strong breeze. A thick layer makes you hot the moment the wind drops.

• Light cloth: tropical-weave wool, wool-mohair, or a light wool-linen blend. See tropical wool. Pure linen creases quickly and does not suit formalwear.
• A breathable or half lining: less heat, lighter jacket.
• Skip velvet and tweed: heavy and warm.
• A neat extra layer: a light wrap or thin coat for a breezy evening beats wearing something heavy all night.
• A moderate waistcoat: for a three-piece, choose a thin waistcoat, or a cummerbund instead.

One last tip: try the outfit in near-real conditions. Stand outdoors for half an hour in the jacket and you will know at once if it suits. For outdoor evenings in general, see evening events outdoors.

How Mon Amie can help

If you are invited aboard and have no suitable suit, tell a Mon Amie consultant the party time, the route and the weather. They will advise a light cloth, a colour and a cut to suit; for a one-time use, see tuxedo rental. Book on the fitting page. Making time depends on the style and fitting schedule, so book early ahead of the party.