Themed parties: Gatsby, 007 and more

A themed party is a rare chance to wear a tuxedo to tell a story. The two most common themes in Vietnam are Gatsby (the 1920s) and James Bond (007). Both suit a tuxedo, but each needs a different reading. The hard part is not choosing the clothes but knowing where to stop: suggest the theme enough for people to recognise it, but not so much that it becomes fancy dress.

Gatsby: the 1920s, wide lapels, waistcoat

Gatsby draws on a novel set in 1920s America, an age of extravagant parties. When people talk about menswear for the theme, they usually mean:

• A three-piece. Jacket, waistcoat and trousers, with a waistcoat cut high enough to cover the waistband.
• Wide peak lapels. Jackets of the time had broader lapels and a softer shoulder than modern cuts.
• High-waisted trousers with a straight or slightly full leg. The waist sits near the navel, and braces (suspenders) usually replace a belt.
• A white shirt with a stiff or wing collar, and a hand-tied bow tie or a tie.

If you already own, or plan to order, a black three-piece tuxedo, that is a good base. TUX-027 is a classic black three-piece with peak lapels, and TUX-031 has a cross-fastened waistcoat, a detail close to the spirit of the period. Your tailor can raise the trouser rise and add braces for a 1920s feel.

On history: in the 1920s the truly formal evening dress was still the tailcoat, and the dinner jacket was the less formal option. So wearing a tuxedo to a Gatsby party is right in spirit, even if it was not the most formal evening dress of its day.

The Hollywood glamour that followed carries the same mood, and you can read more in old Hollywood tuxedo style.

007: a black tuxedo or a white dinner jacket

The image of James Bond at the casino table is tied to two looks: a black tuxedo with satin lapels and a black bow tie, and a white dinner jacket with black trousers. The white jacket appears memorably in Goldfinger (1964) with Sean Connery, and the black tuxedo and bow tie recur across many films, including Casino Royale (2006). The article on the tuxedo in the James Bond films goes into more detail.

To dress in that spirit:

• Black tuxedo: one button, peak or shawl satin lapels, white shirt, hand-tied black bow tie, patent shoes.
• White dinner jacket: a white or ivory jacket with black trousers and a black bow tie. TUX-042 is an ivory dinner jacket with black lapels, exactly this pairing.
• Restraint: what makes Bond is composure, not props.

Do not turn it into fancy dress

The line lies in quality and restraint. Fancy dress is what you buy at a toy shop: cheap shiny fabric, clip-on bows, plastic hats. A themed formal outfit is a real suit that you could wear again on another occasion.

A few rules that keep you on the right side:

• Wear a real, well-fitting suit rather than a cheap rental with a baggy cut.
• Hint at the theme with one or two details, not a pile of them.
• Avoid obvious props such as plastic guns, fake moustaches and cheap hats.
• Ask the host how far into costume the guests are expected to go. Some parties want full character, others only a suggestion.

Accessories that hint at the theme

Accessories are the neatest way to nod to the theme without touching the suit.

For Gatsby:

• A pocket watch on a chain attached to the waistcoat.
• Braces, a collar pin and gold-toned cufflinks.
• A silk pocket square, and two-tone spectator shoes or plain black patent.

For 007:

• A simple metal watch and silver cufflinks.
• A small flower in the lapel, such as a carnation.
• A flat white pocket square and patent shoes, with nothing much more.

A word from the Mon Amie workshop

A made-to-measure tuxedo for a themed party is not locked to the theme: you can wear it again at a wedding, a gala or a music night later. Tell the consultant about the theme so he can suggest lapels, a waistcoat style and details that suggest the mood while staying useful for years. You can book a fitting at the showroom and browse more looks in the collections.