What to Wear to a Gala Dinner: The Tuxedo and What Goes With It

For most gala dinners the answer is a black or midnight blue tuxedo, a white shirt, a bow tie and patent shoes. Before you choose anything, though, read the invitation closely. The words "gala dinner" alone do not tell you how formal the organisers expect the room to be.

Reading the dress code on the invitation

The line in the corner of the card is what counts. A few common wordings:

• Black tie: tuxedo, white shirt, bow tie, patent shoes. This is the usual level for a gala. The finer steps are covered in what Black Tie means.
• Black tie optional: the hosts encourage a tuxedo but do not require one. Wearing a tuxedo is correct; a dark suit with a black or charcoal tie is the minimum.
• Creative black tie: the frame is still a tuxedo, but you may play with cloth colour, lapel or bow tie to show some personality.
• Formal, or "smart dress": unspecific. Ask the organiser, or take the safe route and wear a dark tuxedo.

If the card says nothing, look at the event itself. A five-star hotel, a ballroom with a stage, an auction or an awards segment almost always means black tie. It is better to be correctly dressed than to stand in the middle of the room feeling out of tune.

The standard gala suit: black or midnight blue

These two colours are the foundation of every gala, and you rarely need to look further.

A black tuxedo is the classic. The satin or grosgrain facing on the lapel is a touch darker than the body of the jacket, and the trousers carry a braid of the same material as the facing. If you like a shawl lapel, TUX-001 in a woven-texture black is one example.

Midnight blue is a very deep navy. There is an anecdote often retold among tailors: under artificial light midnight blue reads blacker than black itself, which is why gentlemen of an earlier era favoured it in the evening. It is a story passed along, not a rule, but what is certain is that ballroom lighting makes midnight blue look deep and rich compared with daylight. TUX-105 is a night navy paired with a black waistcoat, suited to a gala where you want a little distinction while staying within the dress code.

Whichever colour you choose, the jacket should sit cleanly through the shoulder and chest, and the sleeve should show about a finger's width of shirt cuff. A gala means several hours of standing, sitting and raising glasses, and only a jacket that fits at the shoulder keeps its shape through the evening.

Accessories: just enough

A tuxedo is a formula with very little room for extras:

• Shirt: white, turndown or wing collar, pleated or piqué bib, cufflinks.
• Bow tie: black, self-tied, in satin or grosgrain to match the lapel facing. See bow tie or long tie with a tuxedo.
• Cummerbund or waistcoat: one or the other, covering the waistband. Never both.
• Shoes: patent leather, oxford or opera pump, with clean toes and heels.
• Watch: slim face, black leather strap; leave the multi-button sports models at home.
• Pocket square: white, folded flat or with a single point, as described in the pocket square with a tuxedo.

A simple rule: each accessory should have exactly one reason to be there. If you cannot say why you are wearing it, take it off.

Timing, venue and climate

Three points that are easy to overlook:

Timing. A gala dinner begins in the late afternoon or evening, which is exactly when a tuxedo belongs. There is usually a reception and a photo line before the guests sit down. Arrive early enough to straighten your bow tie and jacket before you step in front of the cameras.

Venue. A hotel ballroom has strong air conditioning, so a light wool suits you well. If the dinner is at a resort, outdoors, or involves a walk, think about a more breathable cloth and cushioned shoes. For a seaside evening, read about the white tuxedo and dinner jacket.

Climate. A hot, humid city like Ho Chi Minh City calls for cloth that resists creasing, wicks moisture and has a breathable lining. Tell your tailor you will be in a crowded room and he will choose a suitable weight. Allow for taking the jacket off when you sit for a long time: a good garment keeps its shoulder and lapel line when it is hung back up.

Common mistakes

• Wearing an ordinary black suit with a black tie and calling it a tuxedo. They differ in lapel, covered buttons, braided trousers and cloth.
• Shoes that are not polished to a shine, or with thick, chunky laces.
• A pre-tied bow tie, or one that is too small or too large for the face.
• Forgetting a spare layer for the swing between a cold ballroom and the warm air outside.

How Mon Amie can help

If this coming gala is your first time in a tuxedo, you can browse the classic black collection and then visit a showroom, where a master tailor will measure you and advise on cut and cloth for your build. Needs change from one event to the next, so send the dress code in advance and our consultant will help you choose the right level. Book a fitting here, or message Zalo 0888.111.118.