Embassy Receptions: Reading the Dress Code and Dressing Right

Most embassy national day receptions do not call for a tuxedo. The usual dress is a lounge suit, meaning a smart dark suit, or national dress. A tuxedo is truly needed only when the invitation says black tie, usually for evening galas or occasions with a high degree of ceremony. To avoid dressing wrongly, learn to read the small line at the bottom of the card.

Reading the dress code on a diplomatic invitation

Embassy invitations usually carry a line marked "Dress code" or "Attire", sometimes with a Vietnamese translation. Common wording:

On the card	Meaning	Suggestion
Lounge suit / Business suit	A smart two-piece suit, shirt and tie	Navy or charcoal, laced leather shoes
National dress	Traditional national costume	For Vietnamese men: a formal men's áo dài
Black tie	Tuxedo, white shirt, black bow tie	See the article on the black tie dress code
Black tie optional	Tuxedo preferred, a dark suit still accepted	Wear the tuxedo if you own one
Smart casual	No tie required, but still a jacket	Rare at official receptions

When the wording is unclear, see the article on English invitations that state a dress code. The surest method is to ask the embassy's secretary or protocol desk. They are used to the question, and nobody minds.

National day receptions: lounge suit or national dress

National day receptions usually take place in the late afternoon or early evening as a standing reception where guests circulate and greet one another. Because the hour is still early by tuxedo convention, and because guests come from many cultures, organisers generally choose the lounge suit as the safe option. A navy or charcoal suit, white shirt, discreet tie and moderately polished shoes will do. Those who wish to show national character may wear áo dài, which is entirely acceptable.

Evening galas are where black tie belongs

When the embassy hosts a seated dinner and the invitation says black tie, that is when you need the tuxedo. It might be a charity gala at the embassy, a dinner marking an anniversary of diplomatic relations, or a ceremonial reception. A black or midnight blue tuxedo with satin lapels, braided trousers, white shirt, black bow tie and patent shoes is the baseline. Avoid elaborate colours and very showy fabrics; the atmosphere is serious, so a pared-back tuxedo keeps the right tempo.

Medals and decorations

If you hold orders, medals or awards that can be worn, the international convention runs as follows:

• With black tie, miniature medals are usually worn on the left lapel, much smaller than the originals.
• Full-size medals are for white tie, uniforms or very ceremonial dress.
• An invitation sometimes states "decorations" or "orders and medals". If so, the host wants guests to wear them. If it does not, nobody is obliged to.

For Vietnamese state orders and medals, how they are worn also follows the rules of the awarding body, so ask the event's protocol desk if you are unsure. The article on wearing medals with a tuxedo goes into more detail. One thing a tailor can do: fix a loop or pin position on the left lapel in advance so the medals do not drag the cloth.

Basic diplomatic etiquette

Beyond clothing, a few habits will put you at ease in a diplomatic setting:

• Reply to the RSVP on time, and bring the invitation or confirmation to pass security.
• Arrive within the window stated on the card, neither too early nor too late. At a standing reception, leaving after the speeches and toasts are done is reasonable.
• Greet the ambassador and spouse at the receiving line; address the ambassador as "Your Excellency" on a first meeting.
• Do not eat or drink before the host proposes the toast, and keep your phone silent.
• Carry a few business cards, and pass yours over instead of cutting in while others are talking.

Advice from the Mon Amie workroom

If the embassy circuit invites you often, one pared-back tuxedo and one navy suit cover most invitations. Book a fitting at a showroom and a consultant can advise on lapel style, cloth and how to position medals neatly.