Tuxedos for Shorter Men: How to Look Taller in Black Tie

A shorter man looks taller in a tuxedo when the eye can travel one unbroken vertical line, from the lapel to the hem of the trouser, with nothing cutting across it. Your height does not change, but the cut changes how it is read. These are the four decisions a tailor weighs first for a man of shorter stature.

One button, set high, with a peak lapel

A single-breasted jacket with one button is a clean choice for shorter men, because it opens a long, deep V across the chest. Two buttons also work, provided the top button sits slightly high relative to the natural waist. The higher the closing point, the more open the lower body of the jacket, and the longer the leg appears.

A peak lapel has two points that aim toward the shoulders, which draws the eye upward rather than sideways. A shawl lapel is handsome too, but its broad curve can make the upper body look rounder. For a shorter man, the peak usually gives a sharper, straighter line. Keep the lapel width moderate and in scale with the shoulder.

TUX-018 is a navy one-button tuxedo with black satin peak lapels, and TUX-040 is a restrained black tuxedo with peak lapels. Both have a calm jacket front with few details, which suits this approach.

A jacket of the right length, trousers without a slump

A jacket that runs too long swallows the legs. For a shorter man the hem should cover the seat and stop there; from the side, enough leg should show beneath it. When you stand with your arms relaxed, the hem usually sits around the base of the thumb. That is a reference point for the tailor, not a fixed rule, because it depends on your torso and leg length. More on proportion is in the guide to proportion tips when wearing a tuxedo.

Trousers should be kept just as clean:

• Rise set a little above the navel, so the distance from waist to floor reads longer.
• A straight or gently tapered leg, never flared.
• A hem that kisses the top of the shoe, or no break at all, with no fabric gathered above the shoe.
• The satin braid (galon) down the side seam helps. It adds one more vertical line.

For the question of rise, see high or low trouser rise.

One tone from top to bottom

A tuxedo already starts with an advantage: jacket and trousers in one dark shade, a dark bow tie. The goal is not to spoil it with strong horizontal breaks.

• A cummerbund in a different colour from the trousers acts like a stripe across the middle of the body. A shorter man does better with a waistcoat in the jacket's colour, or neither.
• A belt has no place with a tuxedo. Braces or side adjusters keep the waist cleaner.
• Avoid large patterns and wide checks. Plain cloth or a small, quiet weave keeps the surface continuous.

The black one-button TUX-099, shown with a pleated-front shirt, is an example of one unbroken dark block from collar to shoe.

Slim shoes

Heavy shoes with round, broad toes and thick soles pull the eye to the floor and make the foot look larger. Choose patent leather in an Oxford or opera pump, with a moderately slim toe and a thin sole. The slimmer the shoe, the more it reads as an extension of the dark trouser leg. Socks should match the trousers.

A small lift in the heel, around a centimetre, can be acceptable if you are used to it, but the tuxedo is meant to be elegant. Do not trade comfort for a few millimetres.

What to avoid

1. A large double-breasted jacket with a long hem. It tends to overwhelm the wearer; a separate guide covers how to do this properly in shorter men in double-breasted tuxedos.
2. Heavy, built-up shoulders, which shorten and weigh down the frame.
3. Wide trouser legs and deep cuffs.
4. Sleeves that cover most of the back of the hand. About a centimetre of shirt cuff should show.

Why made to measure matters here

Off-the-peg tuxedos for shorter men usually need several alterations: sleeves, jacket length, trouser length. Each small change shifts the proportions of the whole garment. With a made-to-measure jacket the tailor cuts from the start to your torso length, leg length and true shoulder width, so the proportions agree from the pattern onward.

Book a fitting at Mon Amie

At the showroom the adviser takes your measurements and lets you try several jacket lengths in the mirror before settling the fit. The process is described on the made-to-measure tuxedo page, and you can book a fitting in advance so the adviser can give you their full attention.