The bespoke tuxedo process at Mon Amie, step by step

A bespoke tuxedo at TUXEDO by Mon Amie goes through six steps: consultation, measuring, choosing cloth and details, cutting and making in the workshop, fitting, then delivery with alterations if needed. Making time depends on the model and the fitting schedule, and your consultant will confirm it at the measuring session. So if the tuxedo is for a wedding or an event with a fixed date, it pays to book early.

1. Consultation: start with the occasion

A good tuxedo starts with one question: where will you wear it? Your consultant will usually ask:

• The occasion: a wedding, a gala, a year-end party, a diplomatic dinner.
• The dress code on the invitation: black tie, black tie optional or creative black tie. If you are unsure, see the dress code levels.
• The date, and whether the event is in an air-conditioned venue or outdoors.
• Whether you will wear it once or several times a year.
• Your budget.

Bring reference photos, or pick a few models from the collections beforehand. From there your consultant will suggest colours, lapel styles and a price tier. Booking ahead means a consultant is set aside for you, with no waiting.

2. Measuring: more than numbers

The measuring session records the core measurements: neck, shoulders, chest, waist, seat, sleeve, jacket length, thigh and trouser length. Just as important is reading your figure. The tailor notes whether your shoulders slope or sit square, whether one is lower than the other, whether your back is straight or slightly rounded, your midsection, how you stand and how you move.

Those observations shape the pattern. Two men with the same chest measurement, one with sloping shoulders and one with square shoulders, need two different jackets.

To make the session as accurate as possible:

• Wear a shirt that fits you well, and nothing too bulky.
• Bring the shoes you plan to wear on the day, so the trouser length can be set. Tuxedo trousers are never cuffed, so the hem should just touch the top of the shoe.
• Tell the tailor how you like to wear clothes: close-fitting or relaxed, whether you sit for long stretches, whether you plan to dance.

3. Choosing cloth and details

This is the enjoyable part, and also the step that sets the price. You handle the actual cloth, see how it catches the light and feel how it drapes. The cloth library includes Vercelli (Italy, distributed by Mon Amie), Kevinlli, Vitale Barberis Canonico and Holland & Sherry.

The details to settle:

• Colour: black, midnight blue, ivory for a dinner jacket, burgundy or a statement shade.
• Jacket: single- or double-breasted, one button or two. TUX-130 is an example of a one-button jacket with satin-faced peak lapels and four satin-covered buttons on each cuff.
• Lapels: shawl, peak or notch; faced in satin, grosgrain or velvet. Our guide to choosing tuxedo lapels covers each style.
• Pockets and vents: jetted pockets without flaps are standard; a ventless back is the traditional choice, while side vents make movement easier.
• Trousers: a satin or grosgrain side stripe, with side adjusters or buttons for braces.
• Waistcoat or cummerbund, a pleated or piqué-front shirt, and a self-tie bow tie.

Once everything is settled, your consultant quotes the complete outfit across the three tiers: Essential, Signature and Heritage. Our article on bespoke tuxedo prices gives you a sense of the ranges.

4. Pattern cutting and making in the workshop

From your measurements and the notes on your figure, the tailor drafts a pattern for you alone, then cuts the cloth. The tuxedo is made at the Hoàng Vy workshop, operating since 1991, by more than 50 tailors with 10 to 25 years at the bench.

A tuxedo has parts that call for particular skill. Satin facings must lie flat with no ripples and crisp edges. The side stripe must run straight from waistband to hem. Covered buttons must be evenly taut. If you choose velvet, every piece must be cut with the nap running the same way so the colour stays even.

5. The fitting

There is usually a fitting to bring the garment close to your figure. The number of fittings depends on the garment, its style and the cloth.

At the fitting, check these points with the tailor:

• Collar: sits close against the neck, with no gap and no lifting.
• Shoulders: lie smoothly, without extending past your own or dimpling below.
• Front: when buttoned, no X-shaped pulls around the button.
• Sleeves: show a little shirt cuff, around a centimetre or slightly more.
• Trousers: fall straight, just touching the shoe, with the side stripe running true.
• Movement: sit down, raise your arms, take a few steps, and see whether anything restricts you.

Be candid about how it feels. Anything tight or catching is far easier to adjust at this stage than once the garment is finished. Remember to bring the shirt and shoes you will wear on the day.

6. Delivery and alterations

At delivery, try on the complete outfit with shirt, bow tie, studs, cufflinks and shoes, to see it all together one last time. If anything still is not right, Mon Amie makes alterations after delivery.

Your body can change between the measuring session and the event, for example if you are training ahead of your wedding. So, if your schedule allows, try the tuxedo on again a few days before the event, leaving time for any adjustment.

Your consultant will also explain how to look after it: hang the jacket on a broad-shouldered hanger, store it in a breathable garment bag, brush it lightly after each wear and never press directly on satin facings.

Planning around an important date

• Book early. Making time depends on the model and the fitting schedule, and your consultant will confirm it when you are measured.
• Keep your weight steady while the tuxedo is being made, since changes in your figure affect the fit.
• Plan your fitting dates ahead, especially if you travel often for work.
• If time is short, or you only need to wear it once, consider renting a tuxedo. You try it on in the showroom, it is altered to fit and cleaning is included.

How Mon Amie can help

TUXEDO by Mon Amie has five showrooms in Ho Chi Minh City: 357 Nguyễn Trãi (An Đông Ward), 114–116 Hồ Văn Huê (Đức Nhuận Ward), 80–82–84 Đường 3/2 (Hòa Hưng Ward), Caravelle Hotel, 19–23 Lam Sơn Square (Sài Gòn Ward), and 13 Nguyễn Thị Thập (Tân Hưng Ward). We are open 8:30 to 21:00, and until 21:30 at Đường 3/2. You can book a consultation and measuring or call or message us on Zalo at 0888.111.118.