Wearing a tuxedo at 20, 30, 40 and beyond

There is no age limit on a tuxedo, but each decade asks for a different focus. In your twenties you are learning your cut and trying colours. From thirty to forty-nine it is time to invest in one properly made suit that will carry you for years. From fifty on, fine cloth and ease of movement matter more than a skinny silhouette.

In your twenties: a clean cut, and room to experiment

Younger men's bodies are still changing with work and sport, so there is little point hunting for a suit to wear for twenty years. A trim cut with a well-seated shoulder and a gently tapered leg is enough. The one thing not to get wrong is the shoulder, because that is the part nobody can fix cheaply later.

This is also the decade to experiment. Black is the safe base, but midnight blue, burgundy or charcoal all work if you only need something for year-end parties, graduations or a gala. TUX-039, a black one-button shawl-lapel tuxedo in a slim cut, shows how clean and versatile this style can be. If you are not sure how often you will wear it, renting a tuxedo for your first event is a sensible way to test a cut before commissioning one.

A slim cut is not the same as a tight one. A single-button jacket that strains at the waist creates diagonal creases and looks less elegant than a comfortable fit.

Thirty to forty-nine: invest in a proper black or midnight

This is when invitations multiply: friends' weddings, company galas, partner dinners, association events. It is also when your frame is usually settled enough to justify made-to-measure.

If you only own one tuxedo, choose between two:

• Solid black, with a satin shawl or peak lapel. The black-tie standard, correct almost everywhere. See the classic black collection.
• Midnight blue. Under evening light it reads almost black but has more depth, especially in photographs. Browse the Midnight Blue & Navy collection.

At this stage, pay attention to what outsiders barely notice but your body feels immediately: shoulders, armholes, the waist suppression, jacket length. That is the argument for made-to-measure tuxedos, cut and adjusted to your measurements rather than a stock size altered afterwards.

Many men begin to carry some weight around the middle in their forties. The answer is balance, not hiding. Keep the jacket long enough to cover the hip, take the trouser rise a touch higher, and let a cummerbund or waistcoat give the front a clean, unbroken plane.

Fifty and beyond: good cloth, an easy cut

After fifty you have little left to prove with tightness. What makes a suit look expensive is the cloth and how it falls: fine wool, tightly woven, that does not shine with wear, with satin or grosgrain facings properly finished.

A few priorities:

• A natural shoulder with light padding, and sleeves generous enough to shake a hand or raise a glass without the jacket riding up.
• A higher trouser rise, straight or slightly tapered leg, and a waist with room to sit through a long dinner.
• Classic colour (black, midnight), or a deep shade such as burgundy if you want to stand out in a controlled way.

For gentlemen past sixty, our guide to tuxedos for men over 60 goes further into cut and comfort.

Accessories at each stage

Stage	Bow tie and pocket square	Watch and studs	Shoes
Twenties	Self-tie or pre-tied bow in black; try a patterned bow when the occasion allows	Simple dial, basic cufflinks	Patent or well-polished black oxfords
Thirties and forties	Self-tied black bow; white pocket square folded flat	Slim dress watch on leather, cufflinks and shirt studs in one metal	Patent leather or opera pumps
Fifty plus	Self-tied bow; silk pocket square	Classic watch, a set given by friends or inherited	Polished black loafers or calf oxfords with a cushioned sole

As a rule, the older you get, the fewer pieces you add. One good set of links and a slim watch say more than five accessories competing with each other.

What does not change at any age

Whatever the decade, three things hold: the jacket fits at the shoulder, the trouser breaks just once over the shoe, and a little shirt cuff shows past the sleeve. A tuxedo is evening dress, so the hour and the occasion matter more than the number on your birth certificate.

Where Mon Amie can help

If you are unsure which stage you are in, try a few cuts before you decide. The tailors at our showrooms will measure you and suggest colour and cloth that suit your frame and your real needs. You can book a fitting at a showroom at your convenience, and it is wise to book well before the event so there is room for fittings and adjustments.