Rectangular Builds: Creating Shape in a Tuxedo

A rectangular build is one where the shoulders, waist and hips are close in width and the torso runs straight down. It dresses cleanly, but without care a tuxedo on this frame can look like a box. The tailor's job is to add definition: ease in the waist, emphasis at the shoulder and chest, and then use the lapel and waistcoat to draw the eye along a V.

Recognising a rectangular build

Stand straight in front of a mirror and compare three points: the shoulder tips, the waist and the hip bone. If the three widths are close and nothing narrows noticeably, you have a rectangular build. These men are usually slim, carry little around the middle and have a modest chest. It is not a flaw: straight shoulders let a jacket hang beautifully. You only need to add lines so that the body gains depth.

A lightly suppressed waist

Darts and side seams are where the tailor takes in the body of the jacket. On a rectangular frame, suppress the waist lightly, enough to give a taper from chest to waist but without squeezing. Take in too much and the jacket creases across the middle and the skirts flare open. Taking in just enough shows the waist and keeps you comfortable.

The button position matters too. A button at the natural waist makes the point of narrowing easier for the eye to find. Our article on button stance and the jacket waist explains it in more depth.

Moderate shoulder structure

The shoulder sets the top of the silhouette. A rectangular build usually does not need a lot of added padding, because the shoulder is already straight. A moderate pad and a crisp shoulder line add a little width, so the waist appears smaller by comparison. Too much padding makes you look as if you are wearing someone else's jacket.

The rule is that the jacket shoulder ends exactly at your shoulder tip, no wider. If it is too wide the body of the jacket collapses, and all the waist shaping is lost.

Peak lapels for a V

A peak lapel, with its point aimed up toward the shoulder, draws a rising diagonal that frames the chest and shoulders as a V. A V that is wide at the top and narrows to the waist gives a straight frame a more athletic line. It is the simplest and most effective device, which is why it is often chosen for this build. Read the classic black peak-lapel tuxedo for more on the style.

A peak lapel of medium to generous width works well. TUX-060 is a solid black tuxedo with black satin peak lapels, and TUX-004 is a complete black tuxedo with peak lapels. A shawl lapel gives a softer, continuous curve but does not create as clear a V as a peak does.

A waistcoat to define the waist

A waistcoat follows the body with almost no spare cloth, so it shows the waist even more clearly than the jacket. A deep V waistcoat or a crossed, diagonal one in particular pulls the eye along a diagonal. For a rectangular build, a three-piece suit adds layers to the upper body and gives depth without effort.

TUX-031 is a black three-piece tuxedo with a diagonal waistcoat, and TUX-005 is a blue-black three-piece. In hot weather, or if you want something lighter, a cummerbund also defines the waist, with less weight than a waistcoat. The guide to three-piece tuxedo waistcoat styles has the details.

Accessories and small details

A rectangular build also gains from details that add layers to the upper body. A flat or three-point pocket square at the left chest gives a focal point, and a medium to large bow tie makes the neck and shoulders more prominent. A pleated shirt front adds texture across the chest, particularly with a deep V waistcoat. A cummerbund is a light alternative if you do not want to wear a waistcoat all evening, but it must sit at the natural waist with the pleats facing up.

Avoid accessories that are too small or too slender, which flatten the body further.

What to avoid

• A boxy cut with no suppression, which flattens a rectangular frame further.
• A jacket that is too long, which splits the body into two equal blocks.
• Lapels that are too narrow, which cannot form a V.
• Cloth that is too stiff and glossy, which adds rigidity. Choose a moderate drape with a matte face.

Advice from the Mon Amie workshop

A rectangular build is easy to dress well once the tailor knows how to add line. You can try a few lapel and waistcoat styles in the mirror and then decide on the cut. See our bespoke tuxedo page and book a fitting for advice in person.