The essential tuxedo accessory kit for a black-tie night

A tuxedo is not complete without its accessories, and the accessories are what separate it from a black suit. The minimum list is eight items: a hand-tied bow tie, cufflinks, studs, a white pocket square, long black socks, patent shoes, braces, and a cummerbund (or a waistcoat). Leave one out and the whole picture tilts.

Bow tie, cufflinks and studs

These three go with the dress shirt and decide the most.

• Hand-tied bow tie: black, in silk or satin to match the lapel facing. A pre-tied bow looks so flat and even that it reads as lifeless, and onlookers can tell. A hand-tied bow with a slight lean is more natural. If you are new to it, see how to tie a bow tie.
• Cufflinks: a dress shirt usually has double cuffs, folded back and fastened with metal links in place of buttons. Plain black, silver or gold are the safe choices.
• Studs: these replace the buttons on the front placket, usually three or four, in a metal matching the cufflinks. Concealed buttons on a dress shirt are a tidy alternative if you do not want studs to show.

Using one metal across all three helps the whole look cohere. There is more in choosing cufflinks and studs.

White pocket square, black socks, patent shoes

Small things that are noticed at once.

• White pocket square: white linen or cotton, folded flat or across, with only a straight edge showing above the breast pocket. It is the only point of brightness on the upper body. A true handkerchief for wiping hands is a different object, so do not confuse the two.
• Long black socks: thin black socks, tall enough that no skin shows when you sit and cross your legs. Light or patterned socks are a common slip for first-time wearers.
• Patent shoes: lace-up patent, or opera pumps with a grosgrain bow. Polished calf shoes are accepted in many rooms, but the gloss of patent is what matches the satin on the lapel and trouser stripe. Care is covered in caring for patent shoes.

Braces and cummerbund

A correctly made tuxedo trouser usually has no belt loops. Instead there are buttons inside the waistband for braces, or side adjusters at the hips. Braces keep the trouser hanging straight, stop the waistband from slipping when you sit, and avoid the bulge of a belt under the jacket.

What covers the waistband is a cummerbund, a broad silk sash around the waist with its pleats opening upward, or an evening waistcoat. Both do the same job: they hide the waistband and the line where shirt meets trouser. If you wear a single-breasted jacket without a waistcoat, the cummerbund is essential. With a waistcoat you need neither, but the waistcoat must be long enough to cover the waistband.

Do not substitute a leather belt. It shows when the jacket opens and takes away the formal look. For a comparison, read three-piece tuxedo: waistcoat or cummerbund.

The TUX-046 accessory set as a reference

In our collection, TUX-046 is a frame with no jacket, devoted entirely to accessories: black patent lace-up shoes with round toes and a red lining; a white shirt with an upright wing collar and double cuffs fastened with metal links; and a large black bow tie in a textured weave. You can use this picture as a checklist when you prepare. A white pocket square, long black socks and a cummerbund or braces fill in what is missing.

One note: the wing collar is most often seen with white tie or with very traditional black tie. For most weddings and galas today, a small turn-down collar with a pleated or piqué front is the easier choice. Pick one collar style and keep the rest consistent with it.

A running order before you leave the house

A short list in the order you put things on helps you avoid forgetting:

1. Long black socks, then trousers with the braces already fastened.
2. Shirt, studs and cufflinks; cummerbund or waistcoat.
3. Hand-tied bow tie around the collar.
4. Patent shoes, wiped clean.
5. Jacket, with the white pocket square last.

Check your kit the evening before, not minutes before leaving. Cufflinks and studs are small and easy to lose, so keep them together in one box.

Tips from the Mon Amie workroom

Accessories bought separately often drift from the tone of the suit, so bring them to your fitting or try them together in the showroom. A consultant can help you choose each piece by lapel colour, shirt collar and occasion. Book a fitting at Mon Amie, and once the basics are complete, read on to upgrading your tuxedo accessories and the rules for pairing a tuxedo.