Should You Wear an Undershirt Under a Tuxedo Shirt

In Ho Chi Minh City, yes, provided it is a thin undershirt with a deep V-neck in a tone close to your skin rather than white. An undershirt absorbs sweat, protects the shirt from yellowing at the collar and underarms, and is almost invisible when chosen well. Chosen badly, it shows through a white shirt the moment the jacket comes off.

Why it helps in a hot climate

A tuxedo shirt is fastened to the neck and worn under a jacket, sometimes also a waistcoat or cummerbund, which is hot. Sweat has to go somewhere, and if it soaks straight into the shirt you will see wet marks at the underarms and back, and skin may even show through thin white cloth. An undershirt does three jobs:

• It absorbs perspiration before it reaches the shirt.
• It reduces the damp patches visible outside, especially at the underarms.
• It extends the life of the shirt, because the collar and underarms stain less. Yellowing is directly tied to sweat, as we explain in storing tuxedo shirts without yellowing.

A lightweight shirt for hot weather helps too. See tuxedo shirts for hot climates, and for those who sweat heavily, tuxedo tips for men who sweat easily.

V-neck and skin tone so it does not show

What puts many men off is the fear of the undershirt showing. There are two ways to make it disappear.

A deep V-neck. A tuxedo shirt has an open neckline before the top studs are fastened, and the bow tie sits above it. A round-neck undershirt can poke up above the opening of the shirt and leave an unsightly white edge. A V-neck deep enough, or a very low scoop, stays hidden. Test it with the shirt first to check the neckline.

A skin-matching colour. Contrary to instinct, a white undershirt shows through a white shirt more than a skin-toned one: it forms an opaque panel with a clear edge, and the hem and seams can show. A beige undershirt, or one close to your own skin tone, blends into the body and virtually vanishes under a light shirt. Choose the shade for your own skin rather than a generic chart. Avoid dark colours or patterns, which show up plainly.

Also look for a style with no raised seams at the shoulders, underarms and sides, and with enough length that the undershirt does not ride up as you move.

When the jacket comes off

This is where the undershirt is tested. At a party everyone takes the jacket off at some point, to dance, to sit at the table or to pose for photographs. The shirt then becomes the outer layer, and whatever is under it shows:

• A short-sleeved undershirt can leave a line across the arm through thin cloth. A sleeveless one, or one with a very short sleeve cut to the shoulder, is usually cleaner.
• An undershirt that is too loose wrinkles into folds at the back. Choose a close but not tight fit.
• With a pleated front, a thin, flat undershirt helps the pleats lie still without bulging.

For etiquette on taking off the jacket, see when to take your tuxedo jacket off.

Which fabric

• Fine, long-staple cotton: breathable, absorbent and soft on the skin. The safe choice.
• Modal or modal blends: soft, thin, absorbent and quick to dry.
• Technical moisture-wicking fabrics: suited to heavy sweaters, but test them for any tendency to hold odour.
• Avoid thick polyester and shiny fabrics, which trap heat and are easy to detect under a shirt.

Pick thin, smooth and non-abrasive material so that it does not wrinkle the shirt or attract lint.

When you can skip it

If your shirt is fairly thick and you rarely sweat in an air-conditioned room, you can leave it off. For an outdoor wedding or a crowded hall, though, we would still advise wearing one.

How Mon Amie can help

When you try on your tuxedo in the showroom, wear the undershirt you plan to use so that the consultant can check whether it shows through the shirt. Mon Amie can suggest shirt fabric and weight suited to the Ho Chi Minh City climate. Book a fitting to check on the spot, or read about our tuxedo tailoring first.