Groomsmen of Different Builds: One Style for All

When the groomsmen range from tall to short and slim to broad, choose a simple, classic tuxedo with few build-sensitive details, then adjust each man at the shoulder, sleeve and trouser leg. No single model suits everyone perfectly, but some choices are forgiving, and some alterations turn one shared model into a good fit for each. The aim is for the row to look level and tidy when everyone lines up for the photograph.

Choose a style that works on most builds

A few principles make a shared model less demanding of the wearer:

• Single-breasted: a vertical closing line suits tall and short men alike. A double-breasted jacket needs more careful balancing and can shorten a short or heavy man; see single- versus double-breasted tuxedos.
• Medium lapel width: a very slim lapel makes broad shoulders look heavy, a very wide one swallows a smaller man.
• Black or deep navy: dark colour makes the figure neater and hides differences in build.
• Cloth with slight stretch or medium weight: helps the cut stand well on varied bodies.
• A continuous waistcoat or cummerbund: covers the transition at the waist, where differences in build show most.

Models such as the black two-button tuxedo in a classic cut and the classic black three-piece tuxedo have balanced proportions that read well on many builds.

Adjust each man

One model with a different measurement for each man is obvious in tailoring, and a good idea in rental too. Here is what to adjust:

• Shoulders: the hardest part to alter, so choose the size that fits the shoulder first and adjust the rest around it.
• Sleeves: show about a centimetre or two of shirt cuff below the sleeve; sleeves too short or too long show instantly in photographs.
• Trouser length: the waistband set at the right point, the hem just touching the shoe. A tall man should not have trousers that leave the heel bare, and a short man should not have fabric bunching.
• Waist and torso: slim men should have the waist taken in, broader men need the armhole eased so the jacket does not pull when buttoned.
• Jacket length: it must cover the seat. A short man can take it slightly shorter so the legs look longer.

Men with a belly generally suit a single-button jacket, a slightly higher trouser rise and a dark waistcoat; slimmer men might want a little shoulder structure or a heavier cloth. When a groomsman is older or heavier, see tuxedos for the fuller figure.

Lining up for the photograph

Group pictures are where differences show most. A few tips for the photographer and the groomsmen:

1. Arrange by height from the outside in, or alternate, and avoid putting the tallest beside the shortest where possible.
2. Let the shorter men stand on a slightly higher step, or have the tallest bend a knee, to tighten the frame.
3. Button every jacket at the same moment, straighten the sleeves and fix collars before the shutter.
4. Use the same hand position: arms relaxed, or hands in trouser pockets, or one hand holding flowers.
5. Place the groom in the centre or at the head of the line to give the picture an axis.

With the same colour and cut, a difference in height is only a difference in height, not exaggerated by unevenly fitted clothing.

Rent or make

Both have good reasons:

Factor	Rent	Make to measure
Fit	Nearest size, then small alterations	Each man measured, precise fit
Difficult builds (very tall, very broad)	Size may not exist	More suitable
Party spread across provinces	Convenient if fittings are possible	Needs time to measure and fit
Cost	Lower for one occasion	Higher, but kept for later use

If the group has fairly similar builds, renting is the neat solution. If one or two have difficult builds, you can make for those men and rent for the others, provided colour and cut match. Rental price depends on the model, so ask your consultant for details. See renting tuxedos for groomsmen and our tuxedo rental page.

Suggestions from the Mon Amie workroom

Send your consultant each groomsman's height and approximate weight, or invite the whole party to a single fitting. We will suggest a shared model that suits many builds and the adjustments for each man. See groom styles on the wedding tuxedo page, then book a fitting at a showroom.