Youthful Build, Wanting to Look More Mature in a Tuxedo

A slight frame and a youthful face are assets in plenty of settings, but at a black tie evening they can make you look small against the formality of the room. You do not need to make yourself bigger to look mature. Four choices help: classic colours, lightly structured shoulders, a three-piece suit and edited accessories, together with avoiding a cut that is too tight.

Classic colour: black and midnight

Colour sets most of the first impression. Black and midnight blue are the two colours of traditional black tie, associated with calm and formality.

• Solid black with black satin facings reads serious and neat, right for when you want to be taken as dependable.
• Midnight blue is deep and quiet. Under evening lights it looks almost black but warmer, a good choice if pure black feels cold.
• Avoid bright colours, large patterns or pale shades, which bring out youth rather than composure.

See also which colour to choose for a first tuxedo.

Lightly structured shoulders

A boyish build often comes with narrow shoulders. The shoulder is the frame that carries the whole suit, so it is where to invest.

• Light structure. A thin pad and a moderate canvas give a straight, defined shoulder line without the padded look of old, oversized jackets. Keep the line natural, matching your own shoulder bone.
• The shoulder seam should not extend beyond the bone. An overhanging shoulder makes it look as if you are wearing borrowed clothes.
• Moderate fullness in the chest, not flat, so the front of the jacket has some depth.

A light canvas can give a composed outline without making the suit heavy. This is a clear advantage of made-to-measure, because the tailor sets the amount of structure to each man's shoulder.

The three-piece

A waistcoat adds a layer to your upper body and a sense of presence. A three-piece also keeps you looking put together when the jacket comes off.

• A waistcoat in the same cloth, buttoned close to the waist, makes the torso neat and creates a second V.
• A pointed or moderately cut neckline, not too low.
• TUX-072 is a black three-piece tuxedo: a peak-lapel jacket faced in satin, a waistcoat with a pointed neckline, straight trousers and a black bow tie. TUX-083 is a deep navy three-piece with black satin peak lapels and a black waistcoat.

Our piece on three-piece tuxedo waistcoat styles gives more choices.

Avoid an over-tight cut

Younger men often choose a very slim fit to look sharp, but on a slight frame too much closeness exposes narrow shoulders and thin arms and makes you look smaller.

• Choose a tailored fit, not a tight one. The jacket gently follows the waist yet leaves enough ease for the cloth to hang straight.
• Sleeves that are not pinched; trousers that are straight or lightly tapered, not skinny.
• Avoid a jacket that is too short, which shortens the torso and looks boyish.

A little more comfort in the cut helps you stand more solidly.

Edited accessories

Maturity comes from restraint. Each accessory should earn its place:

• A black bow tie, tied by hand, in a size proportionate to the collar.
• A white shirt with a piqué or pleated front, plain metal cufflinks.
• One white pocket square, folded flat; not many pins or chains.
• A simple watch on a black leather strap.
• Patent leather or black oxford shoes, polished.

Avoid patterned bow ties, multicoloured pocket squares and any detail that flags youth.

How Mon Amie can help

Looking mature does not mean looking older, it means looking composed. At a fitting, let the consultant judge your shoulders, choose the right amount of structure and set the jacket length for you. Read more in slim men in a tuxedo, then book a fitting at a showroom. Making time depends on the model and the fitting schedule, and your consultant will confirm it when you are measured.