Ivory Shawl-Collar Dinner Jackets: Models Worth Seeing

For a correct ivory dinner jacket, look for a shawl collar in the same cloth as the body, a single button, black trousers and a black bow tie. That is the classic formula for the white evening jacket, worn on warm and formal nights. Every other variation, such as black contrast lapels or double-breasted fronts, is a departure from it. Not wrong, but worth knowing where you are leaving the original.

Why a self-colour shawl is the standard

The ivory dinner jacket is the warm-weather version of the tuxedo, worn to outdoor parties, resorts, cruises and evening events in warm climates. The name "dinner jacket" comes from Britain and a formal dinner; "tuxedo" is the American word.

The shawl collar is a single rolled curve with no notch and no point. It has long been tied to evening jackets and smoking jackets, so on ivory, in the same cloth as the body, the whole jacket becomes one soft, continuous, elegant block. A matching collar keeps the garment light instead of splitting it with a dark band.

For more on each lapel type, read how to choose a tuxedo lapel.

Three models to look at

All are in the Ivory Dinner Jacket collection.

• TUX-106: an ivory single-button jacket with a self-colour shawl collar, black trousers and a cummerbund. This is the closest to the classic formula above.
• TUX-073: ivory with a shawl collar, a wide silk cummerbund at the waist, a white bow tie and a pleated shirt. A formal evening look in light tones throughout.
• TUX-015: ivory with a black satin shawl collar and black trousers with a satin stripe. This one uses a contrast lapel, so it leans modern, though it stays in the spirit of an evening suit.

Side by side the difference is clear: TUX-106 and TUX-073 are about continuity; TUX-015 is a dark frame on a light ground. Both have a place, depending on the occasion.

Black trousers, black bow tie

By convention, the ivory jacket goes with black formal trousers carrying a satin stripe (galon) down the leg. The hand-tied black bow tie is the default, because it anchors the outfit in black tie. The contrast between a light jacket and dark trousers and bow gives the figure a clean outline.

A few options around the formula:

• A cummerbund in black or in the jacket's shade, pleats facing up. It hides the join between shirt and trouser waistband, especially without a waistcoat. See how to wear a cummerbund correctly.
• A white bow tie, as on TUX-073, gives an all-light look. It suits a lighter evening and feels more "creative" than strict black tie.
• A white shirt with a pleated or piqué front, with small studs and cufflinks.
• Black patent shoes. Brown or light shoes lower the formality.

Warm-climate evenings

A hot, humid city such as Ho Chi Minh City suits a light dinner jacket. Ivory absorbs less heat than black, so you feel less weighed down at an outdoor party, in an open hotel lobby or on a rooftop at dusk. A breathable cloth (light wool, mohair or a blend) and a half-lined back help considerably.

On the other hand, pale cloth demands care: it shows stains from wine, and sweat at the collar and underarms. Carry a damp tissue, do not leave the jacket sealed in a plastic bag, and take it for dry cleaning soon after the event. In many temperate countries there is also a custom of wearing white jackets only in summer or at resorts, so if you attend an event abroad in the cold season, ask the host first.

A few things to check when choosing

1. Ivory suits most skin tones better than optic white, which can make skin look dull and glare in a flash.
2. Choose a shawl wide enough for your shoulders. Too narrow looks like a thread; too broad swallows a shorter man.
3. One button is the standard. Double-breasted is another variant; see white double-breasted dinner jackets.
4. If you do not yet own a black suit, make that first, since it works on more occasions.

When to ask your tailor

Ivory depends heavily on cloth and light, so the pictures online are only a guide. Come in, look at the cloth under both warm lamps and daylight, and tell the tailor the occasion so the weight of the fabric can be chosen. Making time depends on the model and the fitting schedule, so order well before the event. Book a fitting at a showroom to be measured and try the jacket on.