Jazz nights and lounges: a lighter tuxedo look

A jazz night does not demand the rigour of a black tie dinner. The mood is warm and intimate: low lights, people sitting close, music running late. The tuxedo for an evening like this is a softer version. It still has satin lapels and a bow tie, but the cloth and the way you wear it relax a notch. Here is how to do that without losing the formality.

A warm, intimate room

A lounge or jazz club is different from a gala hall. The ceiling is low, the tables small, the stage close to the audience, and the light amber and private. Someone dressed too stiffly looks as if he has brought an awards ceremony into a music bar. Someone dressed too casually does not match the setting.

The balance is soft formality: cloth with some drape and a matt finish, deep colours, restrained details. Before choosing, check whether the venue sets a dress code. Some lounges say smart casual, some say cocktail, and some special nights say black tie. The general framework is on the dress code page.

Velvet, shawl collar, no waistcoat

A velvet jacket is the natural pick for a jazz night. It descends from the smoking jacket, worn after dinner in smoking rooms and drawing rooms in Victorian times, so the relaxed spirit is already in its history. The article on the velvet tuxedo jacket covers that origin.

A shawl collar suits this mood better than a peak lapel, because its continuous curve is softer than sharp points. TUX-131 uses burgundy velvet with black satin peak lapels and one button, while TUX-006 is a classic black tuxedo with velvet-faced shawl lapels on a plain-cloth body, which gives velvet's feel with better breathability than a full velvet jacket.

Leave the waistcoat out. A waistcoat makes the outfit more formal, closed and heavy, and sometimes hot. In an air-conditioned lounge with a crowd and warm lights, a velvet jacket without waistcoat stays softer and more comfortable. If you like an extra layer, a slim cummerbund works, though for jazz you can go without.

A loose hand-tied bow and a soft shirt

A self-tie bow has small imperfections: the wings slightly uneven, the knot a touch askew. That is exactly why it suits a jazz night better than a pre-tied one. Tie it comfortably, not tight at the neck, so the wings fall naturally. A silk bow, or a velvet bow in the colour of the jacket, makes a harmonious match.

For the shirt, instead of a stiff pleated front, choose soft cotton with a turn-down or small stand collar and a plain front. Pearl buttons can replace formal studs. These details make the outfit look relaxed while still correct. If the evening allows, an open top button without a bow is also familiar; see wearing a tuxedo without a bow tie.

Deep colours: burgundy and midnight

A lounge under warm light calls for colours that absorb rather than reflect. Two work especially well:

• Burgundy. The colour of velvet and of the evening: warm, deep and flattering under amber light. Pair with black trousers, a white shirt and a black bow. The burgundy models are in the Burgundy and jewel tones collection, and pairing advice is in how to style a burgundy tuxedo.
• Midnight blue. Almost black, but under artificial light it has more depth than plain black. TUX-043 is a navy tuxedo with black satin shawl lapels.
• Beyond those: charcoal, dark moss green or matt black.

Avoid very bright colours or metallic sheens, which throw back stage light, and avoid letting your colour compete with the light on the musicians.

Accessories and shoes

Keep it tidy: a slim watch on a leather strap, plain cufflinks, a flat pocket square. Patent shoes, black loafers or opera pumps all work, depending on the level of formality. With velvet, velvet slippers or polished black leather are the familiar choices.

One note for hot, humid weather: velvet is thick and holds heat. If the night is somewhere airy or outdoors, consider velvet lapels on a wool body rather than a full velvet jacket.

Book a fitting at Mon Amie

If you regularly go to concerts or year-end parties, a made-to-measure velvet jacket is worth buying. The consultant will help you choose colour, lapel shape and cloth weight for the climate. You can book a visit at the showroom and try velvet and wool side by side.